AMATEUR PHOTOGRAPHY. 



487 



AMATEUR PHOTOGRAPHY. 



" For sport the lens is better than the gun. " 

 / wish to make this department of the utmost 

 use to amateurs. I shall, therefore, be glad to 

 answer any questions and to print any items sent 

 me by practical atnateurs relating to their experi- 

 ence in photography. 



MAKING THE NEGATIVE. 



E. T. CALDWELL. 



Without a good negative it is impossible 

 to turn out a perfect picture. It is, then, 

 important that amateurs fully understand 

 this first step of the photographic art. 



Most brands of dry plates will yield good 

 negatives if properly handled. The ex- 

 posure, of course, has much to do with the 

 result. There is just that right amount of 

 time to expose which gives clear, crisp 

 plates. More time wi.l give flatness; less, 

 too thin and weak a negative. With recti- 

 linear lenses working with stop f. 16, 1-5 

 second would be about the correct time. 

 For f. 64, 2 seconds, in bright weather. 

 The smaller the diaphragm the more sharp- 

 ness and depth will be obtained. 



Pyrogallic acid is the developing agent 

 most generally used. Its tendency to stain 

 is its one objectionable feature. I find met- 

 o'.hydrochinone gives a much better plate, 

 bringing out detail which it would be im- 

 possible to secure with other developers in 

 short exposures. It is cheap, keeps well, is 

 free from stain and can also be used for 

 bromide papers. 



A simple form of developer is made as 

 follows : 



No. 1 Solution. 



Pyrogallic acid ' 1 ounce. 



Sulphite soda 6 ounces. 



Hot water 16 ounces. 



No. 2 Solution. 



Water 16 ounces. 



Carbonate soda 4 ounces. 



For a normal developer take of No. I, x / 2 

 ounce; of No. 2, y 2 ounce; water, 3 ounces. 

 This strength is suitable for most expos- 

 ures. The No. 1 solution gives density; 

 the No. 2, detail. More water retards de- 

 velopment, and equal parts of one and 2 

 will quicken it. Heat will quicken and cold 

 retard its action ; 60 to 70 degrees is about 

 the right temperature. Extreme heat will 

 cause the gelatine film to soften and frill. 

 In hot weather the developing tray may 

 be placed in another containing ice. De- 

 veloping solution may be used over and 

 over, and when old gives more contrast. 

 Keep the solution which is in use in one 

 bottle and strengthen as required from one 

 and 2. 



Another good developer is made as fol- 

 lows: 



1, Metol 1 ounce. 



Sulphite soda. , , 3 ounces, 



Water 32 ounces. 



2. Hydrochinone 1 ounce. 



Sulphite soda 6 ounces. 



Water 32 ounces. 



3. Carbonate soda (sal soda) 4 ounces. 



Water 16 ounces. 



Take y 2 of each and 3 ounces cold water 

 for a normal developer. This will yield 

 fine, soft negatives. More of No. 2 will 

 give density and harshness. This is good 

 also for all platino-bromide papers,. 



After the plate is exposed, prepare the 

 hypo for fixing in one tray, in the dark 

 room. Four ounces water to 4 ounces 

 hypo is about right. Close door of dark 

 room and by the light of the ruby lantern 

 remove plate from holder. It is sometimes 

 best to place the plate in cold water a few 

 minutes before developing, making it less 

 liable to spot. Lay the plate in the tray, 

 pour the developer over it, and gently rock 

 the tray. In a few seconds the lighter por- 

 tion of the image will appear if correctly 

 exposed. It is best not to have the solution 

 work too fast. Keep it well under control, 

 bringing the picture out gradually. Con- 

 tinue until the picture begins to fade from 

 its first bright appearance. Rinse in cold 

 water and place in hypo ; leave until the 

 white is entirely eaten away; wash y 2 hour, 

 changing the water 2 or 3 times. Then 

 place in a rack to dry, preferably in a 

 draught of cold, dry air. 



Where a plate is much under timed plac- 

 ing it in a solution of soda 5 minutes before 

 developing and then proceeding as usual 

 will bring out detail which can not be 

 obtained otherwise. The solution should 

 be prepared as follows : Saturated solution 

 of carbonate soda, y 2 ounce ; water, 6 

 ounces. Begin development of greatly un- 

 dertimed plates with a weak solution, 

 gradually increasing the strength of the 

 developer. If over timed, add bromide to 

 the weak developer. Negatives too thin 

 and faint may be intensified ; and those too 

 dense and hard, reduced with the follow- 

 ing: Ferrocyanide of potassium, one ounce; 

 water, 16 ounces. To reduce, immerse the 

 plate a few minutes in a hypo solution of 

 one ounce to a pint of water, adding the 

 ferrocyanide a little at a time. The more 

 added the more the plate will be reduced. 

 Wash well and dry. 



Orthochromatic plates are more sensitive 

 to orange, yellow and green. The finer de- 

 tails of foliage will be retained by their 

 use, and a distant mountain against a sky 

 will show better. They are developed the 

 same as other plates. A negative of good 

 density prints out best. A flat, poor nega- 

 tive will not yield a good print by any 

 process. 



Plates may be reduced locally with a 

 camel's hair brush wet in the reducing so- 

 lution. 



