
AMATEUR PHOTOGRAPHY. 
Green.—Print rather lightly, wash well, 
and immerse in 15 minims of sulphuric acid 
diluted with 10 ounces water. 
Violet.—Immerse the blue print in a 25 
per cent. solution of acetate of lead. 
Sepia.—Wash well, and immetse in water 
IO ounces, tannic acid 1 dram, for a few 
minutes; then immerse in carbonate of soda 
1 dram, water 4 ounces, for a short time. 
Then return to tannic acid bath, and if nec- 
essary repeat the operation until the right 
tint is obtained. 
Brown (dark).—Immerse in caustic pot- 
ash one dram, to water 8 ounces (or am- 
monia .880, 10 per cent. solution), until blue 
color disappears and prints are a pale orange 
yellow. Then change to (above) tannic acid 
bath until tint required is reached. 
Black.—Bathe in 4 per cent. solution of 
potassium carbonate (or sodium carbonate) 
until blue disappears and print is a yellow- 
ish-brown. Wash and bathe in 4 per cént. 
solution of tannin. 
Black (another method).—Immerse in 4 
per cent. solution of sodium (or potassium) 
carbonate as above; wash well and bathe in 
to per cent. solution of sulphuret of soda 
antil black; wash well and immerse for a few 
minutes in a 5 per cent. solution of sulphate 
of copper until slightly bleached, when the 
prints are returned to the sulphuret bath 
and are permanent. 
It is important that prints should be 
washed well after treatment. 
There are 3 brands of plates, put out by 
- most manufacturers—snapshot, quick time 
and slow. Use snapshots for snaps and por- 
traits only. Use quick time where you 
can have half or over a second; and slow, 
where you expose a minute or over. 
These plates must be kept separate and 
given different development. Then there 
will be no trouble. 
Almost every amateur loads his camera 
with slow or medium plates; then goes 
out and exposes the whole lot in snaps, 
and differently timed exposures. Then he 
walks the whole lot through the same 
- new, full strength developer, and can’t un- 
derstand what is the matter. 

SOME FIXING BATHS. 
(A) ACID BATHS. 
The first variation of the simple hypo 
and water fixing bath, says a writer in an 
English exchange, is that known as the 
acid fixing bath. The advocates of this— 
or rather these, for there are numerous 
formule in use—claim 3 advantages: (1) 
That it at once stops the action of the ai- 
kaline developer; (2) That it yields neg- 
atives comparatively free from staining 
or discoloration of the gelatine, especial- 
ly after pyro development; (3) That the 
bath itself does not become discolored 
nearly so quickly or so much as the ordin- 
ary simple hypo and water mixture, No. I. 
243 
From among the various formule it 
must suffice to select a few typical cases. 
(3) ACID FIXING BATH. 
In 10 parts, say 16 ounces of water, 
dissolve Io parts, say one ounce, soda sul- 
phite and 40 parts, say 4 ounces, hypo. 
Then add one part, say 30 drops, sulphu- 
Tic acies 
(4) ACID FIXING BATH. 
A.—Dissolve citric acid 1 part, say % 
ounce, in water 16 parts, say 4 ounces. 
B.—Then dissolve hypo 16 parts, say 4 
ounces. Add sodium sulphite 4 parts, say 
one ounce. In water 64 parts, say 16 
ounces. 
Add A to B. 
(5) ACID FIXING BATH. 
Dissolve tartaric acid 3 parts, say 3 dr. 
And soda sulphite.. 5 parts, say 5 dr. 
Anda hy por.a. 64 parts, say 8 oz. 
ae eae 256 parts, say 32 oz. 
Any of the 3 formule, 3, 4, or 5, will be 
found satisfactory. Perhaps No. 3 is the 
most easily prepared. 
There are yet 2 other forms of fixing 
bath which should be quoted, as both are 
supported by men of note. 
(6) METABISULPHITE FIXING BATH. 
Dissolve sodium metabisulphite 1 part. 
Net ly Ose Gen tn an te kc ets 4 parts. 
Tniswatee cai, ce 16 to 20 parts. 
(7) THIOCARBAMIDE FIXING BATH. 
Dissolve thiocarbamide I part. 
And My pOrnss oc8 kee soa 0's wae? 1O- parts; 
Titi Wale tog thor i Sethe: ccd sooke 50 parts. 
Formule 6 and 7 are both recommended 
for use after prolonged development 
where there is a probability of a stained 
negative resulting. 
(B) THE COMBINED HARDENING AND FIXING BATH. 
It sometimes happens in warm weather, 
or with a certain brand of plates, that the 
gelatine swells and blisters _or “‘frills” 
along the edges of the plate. This en- 
dangers risk of injury to the film, 
Moreover, the blisters or frilled parts sel- 
dom or never dry out the same density as 
the other parts, and often leave a mark 
which may in cases spoil the negative. 
To counteract this the use of alum as a 
gelatine-hardening agent has been sug- 
gested (1) as a separate bath, preliminary 
1o fixing. This means washing after de- 
velopment, and after the alum bath, before 
fixing. (2) It is also recommended for — 
use in conjunction with hypo in the fixing 
bath. The cautious worker should there- 
fore be prepared with a few formule in 
case the necessity for their use should 
unexpectedly arise. 
No. 8 may be taken as a fairly typical 
formula. 

