110 



KIDD'S OWN JOURNAL. 



heavy for their size, firm, and plump; particularly 

 about the crown. Size is of hardly any impor- 

 tance, as some varieties produce small bulbs, and 

 others larger, and the varieties with the small 

 bulbs produce equally fine spikes of flowers as 

 those with the largest bulbs. The proper season 

 for planting Hyacinths in beds, in the open air, 

 is the last fortnight of October, and the first of 

 November. Select a dry day for putting in the 

 'bulbs; and if the same can be chosen for the 

 preparation of the soil, it will be in much better 

 condition for the growth of the plant than if 

 worked when wet. Plant in lines, nine inches by 

 twelve inches apart. This will afford space be- 

 tween the plants when up, to work a hoe, for the 

 destruction of weeds and keeping the surface fria- 

 ble, to prevent the escape of moisture in dry 

 weather. The crowns of the bulbs should be three 

 inches under the surface of the soil; and lest a 

 severe winter should occur, it is well to cover the 

 bed with a few inches of old tan, or any light 

 substance, to exclude frost. This should be re- 

 moved, however, when the plants begin to grow 

 through it. 



ITS CULTURE IN POTS. 



The Hyacinth is remarkably well adapted for 

 this purpose; and with the assistance of a garden 

 frame, with some stable manure or tan, to furnish 

 a gentle heat, it may be had in flower at Christ- 

 mas, and, with a good stock of bulbs, the display 

 may be kept up till April or Ma3 r . For early 

 flowering, the bulbs should be planted early in 

 September; those to flower in spring need not be 

 planted earlier than recommended for beds. The 

 best pots are those known as " six-inch Hyacinth 

 pots," which, being deeper than common, afford 

 more space for the roots. But where these can- 

 not be conveniently procured, use six orseveff-ineh 

 pots, such as may be at hand, and these will 

 answer perfectly. The soil used for potting 

 should be as rich as possible. Such as one-half 

 iresh loam, cut from a pasture, with the turf 

 decayed in it ; and well decomposed cow or horse 

 manure, with a small portion of clean sand. Fill 

 the pots lightly with the prepared soil, and place 

 the bulb upon the surface, slightly pressing it 

 into the soil. Set the pots on a dry surface, and 

 cover with about three inches of old tan. After 

 remaining here for a month or five weeks, the 

 bulbs will be sufficiently rooted to render it safe 

 to remove them to a gentle bottom heat of about 

 55°, and introducing a few pots at intervals of 

 about a fortnight, a succession of flowers will be 

 secured until those in the open air come into 

 bloom. Persons possessing no better accom- 

 modation for growing plants than a room window 

 will, with careful management, be able to grow 

 and flower the Hyacinth well — if not to have it in 

 bloom as early as those who can command a 

 gentle heat. We need hardly observe that 

 plants grown during the dark days of winter 

 should be placed near the glass, and be freely 

 supplied with air, when this can be given with 

 safety ; and those grown in windows will draw to 

 the light, unless the pots are frequently turned. 

 Most persons know that a sitting-room window 

 forms a suitable situation for Hyacinths while 

 in bloom, and that their beauty will be longer 

 fading here, than in most situations; but many 



remove them from a close atmosphere, and sud- 

 denly expose them to cold, drying currents in 

 the sitting-room window, by which they are 

 greatly injured. We warn the inexperienced to 

 guard against this common error, and to avoid 

 subjecting the plants to sudden changes at any 

 period of their growth. 



ITS CULTURE IN GLASSES. 



Of all the plaiit*with which we are acquainted, 

 the Hyacinth is the most suitable for this elegant, 

 although somewhat unnatural, system of culture. 

 Its roots, like those of other plants, shun the light 

 with instinctive care; therefore dark-colored 

 glasses should be selected. Place the bulbs on 

 the glasses, and fill with rain-water to within 

 half an inch of the bulb; set them in a cellar, or 

 any other dark, cool situation. When the glasses 

 are moderately filled with roots, which will be 

 the case in the course of three or four weeks, 

 remove them to where the plants will receive a 

 moderate light; and as soon as the leaves assume 

 a healthy green color, to the lightest possible 

 situation. When in actual growth, keep them as 

 near the glass as convenient, and turn them oc- 

 casionally, to prevent long, weakly, ill-shaped 

 stems. The water should be changed at least 

 every week, using pure rain-water, of about the 

 same temperature. as the bulbs may be growing 

 in. For giving vigor to the plants and color to 

 the flowers, we know of no better means than to 

 dissolve in a quart of rain-water an ounce of 

 guano and a quarter of an ounce of chloride of 

 lime, and to pour two tea-spoonfuls of that into 

 each bottle twice a week after the flowers begin 

 to appear; this may also be given with advan- 

 tage to those growing in pots. Bulbs grown in 

 glasses, if to be of any use the following season, 

 should, as soon as the beauty of the flowers is 

 over, be removed to a bed of rich soil, in a frame, 

 or very sheltered situation; being carefully planted 

 and properly tended until the leaves die off. If 

 bright sunshine or frost occur before they become 

 accustomed to their fresh situation, afford them 

 the protection of a slight covering. If well cared 

 for till ripe, they will be worth planting in open 

 beds the following season; but, with the best 

 management, they will not bloom so finely as 

 imported bulbs.* 



* These particulars are from the printed cata- 

 logue, just issued by Messrs. Atkinson & Barr, 

 which every lover of flowers ought to purchase. — 

 Ed. K. J. 



THE OMNIVOROUS CATESPILLAS. 



Mr. Editor,-— In No, 29 of Our Journal (for 

 the 17th July last), page 37, I gave you a de- 

 scription of an Omnivorous Caterpillar. I have 

 been amusing myself this summer by • still 

 further testing their digestive organs ; and have 

 by me at this moment some seventy to eighty of 

 them still feeding. But I expect that this, being 

 a late brood, will take to their winter quarters 

 before I can make any experiment Avith them. 



The result of my operations with an earlier 

 brood is, that they have no objection whatever to 

 French beans, either the leaf or the bean. The 

 wallflower they relish, but much prefer a ripe 



