

AMATEUR PHOTOGRAPHY. 



409 



of water from a tap or a rose jet sweeps 

 out the chemicals from the gelatine com- 

 pletely enough to slow down their action, 

 when the chemical "quick stop" may be 

 applied. Uranium toned prints, let it be 

 noted in conclusion, must be treated gently 

 in still water. A stream from a jet or tap 

 is likely to cause light patches. — The 

 Professional Photographer. 



j WARM TONED PLATINUM PRINTS. 



Cold developed platinum prints immersed 

 in a bath of uranium nitrate assume a 

 brownish violet tint, but do not go beyond 

 that color, and never change to red, even 

 by a prolonged action of the bath. 



Provided always that the development of 

 the print has been by the cold bath process, 

 a reddish (rothel) color is obtainable by 

 the following process: 



Add to 1 liter (34 x /2 ounces) of the de- 

 veloper from 100 to 200 c. cm. (3^2 to 7 

 ounces) of a 4 per cent, solution of mer- 

 curic chloride. Less mercury produces 

 browns of lesser intensity, while with more 

 this intensity of color increases. 



If, after developing, fixing and washing 

 the print is immersed in the uranium 

 bath — Wa'er, 1 liter (34V2 ounces) ; ura- 

 nium nitrate, 10 grammes (2 l / 2 drachms) ; 

 ferricyanate of potassium, 2 grammes {1V2 

 drachms) ; glacial acetic acid. 60 grammes 

 (2 ounces) — the tone changes gradually to 

 a fine sepia color, becomes reddish by a 

 continued action, and finally turns to a 

 positive red. 



When the desired tone is attained, wash 

 for 10 minutes in pure water, acidified with 

 glacial acetic acid, and finally rinse oflf. 



Prolonged washing will either injure or 

 reduce the tone. 



Washing the prints in a dilute solution 

 of ferric chloride turns them green. In 

 order to eliminate from the print all ex- 

 cess of iron, wash in water acidulated with 

 hydrochloric or acetic acid. 



Continued washing of a green print in - 

 water tends to reduce its color intensity, 

 which can, however, be restored by again 

 treating it with a solution of ferric chlo- 

 ride. — Photographische Correspondenzen. 



BURNISHING WITHOUT A BURNISHER. 



Few amateur photographers possess a 

 •burnisher, but all may have pictures equal 

 in finish to the work of the expensive bur- 

 nisher. Most of you are, probably, more 

 or less familiar with the squegee method 

 of finishing unmounted prints, but perhaps 

 not all are aware that mounted photos can 

 be secured by a very similar process, hav- 

 ing the same gloss and an added charm of 

 absolute flatness. When the prints are 

 squegeed previous to being mounted they 

 lose much of their fine finish in mounting. 



For squegeeing after mounting, the 



prints should be mounted while quite wet, 

 and great care taken not to use too much 

 paste. The ordinary roller is not suffi- 

 cient to secure the perfect contact neces- 

 sary for the glace finish; so the print and 

 the ferro-type plate must, in some man- 

 ner, be subjected to greater pressure. To 

 obtain this, put the prints, one at a time, 

 and each with piece of ferro-plate, in a 

 letter press. Great pressure is thereby se- 

 cured, and mounted photos so treated will 

 dry as quickly and have as fine a gloss as 

 unmounted prints or pictures which have 

 been sent to the professional for burnish- 

 ing. Perhaps for small pictures it would 

 be better to put several at a time on an 

 entire plate than to cut it, but with my 

 size (5x8) I have better success with one 

 print at a time on half a ferro-plate. In 

 this, as in all other operations photo- 

 graphic, "Practice makes perfect."— Ex- 

 change. 



REDUCING DENSITY. 

 It often happens that portions of a nega- 

 tive are so intense no detail can be secured 

 from them in the printing. Once in a 

 while, also, a negative is left too long in 

 the developer and acquires too much dens- 

 ity throughout. In the first case, local re- 

 duction must be resorted to, while in the 

 other, reduction of the entire image will 

 be necessary. This is a simple process, 

 and, once tried, will be freely used there- 

 after. It would be a great improvement 

 to any negative to over develop it and 

 then reduce to proper density, as it clears 

 the shadows, removes fog and makes the 

 best possible printing negative. 



For local reduction apply carefully with 

 a brush; for complete reduction simply 

 immerse the plate until sufficiently re- 

 duced, then wash well. 



The mixed solution is to be thrown away 

 after use, as it does not keep well. 



I prefer Howard Farmer's reducer to 

 anv. It is prepared as follows: 

 A. 



Potassium ferricyanide 1 oz. 



Water 10 oz. 



B. 



Hypo-soda 4 oz. 



Water 20 oz. 



For use: Solution A, 60 mins; solution 

 B, 4 oz. — Exchange. 



SNAP SHOTS. 

 I have read your magazine from the first 

 issue to the latest. I read all the sports- 

 men's journals, but none of them comes 

 up to Recreation, which is a world 

 beater. I never could see anything in the 

 pages devoted to photography until a 

 month ago, when I caught a bad case of 

 camera fever. I read Mrs. Porter's arti- 

 cle on "How I Began to Take Pictures," 



