
AMATEUR PHOTOGRAPHY. 
paper give it a coat of lampblack and tur-’ 
pentine, with a little varnish added to make 
the mixture adhere to the paper. ‘There 
will probably be some cracks around the 
edges of these screens which will admit 
’ light. To cover these get some cheap black 
cambric and make curtains for the win- 
dows, which may be hung from small nails 
at the top of the casing. 
One of the windows in the room should 
have a clear outlook to the sky. The frame 
for this window should be made stiffer 
and heavier than the others, and at a con- 
venient height from the floor 2 cross bars 
should be put .in, leaving about 5% inches 
between their inner edges. To the lower 
one of these attach a board projecting out 
into the room so that the camera may set 
on it with its rear end close against the 
screen frame. 
Next make out of 3-16 inch wood a box 
about 2 inches deep, without top or bottom. 
This must fit closely inside the back frame 
of the camera in the space occupied by the 
ground glass frame, which is removed 
when the camera is to be used for enlarg- 
ing. 
The rear end of the little box is to be 
secured to the 2 cross bars of the window 
frame and its inside provided with small 
cleats to hold the negative in a position 
parallel to the back of the camera. The 
sides of the box may be slotted so that the 
negative may be pushed into place from 
the outside. The minor details of this I 
leave to the builder, as they must vary ac- 
cording to circumstances. 
This window frame is to be covered with 
paper like the others, taking special care 
that all cracks are covered. A rectangular 
opening should be left where the box is 
attached so that the light may strike the 
negative. This opening should be covered 
with a piece of ground glass or tracing 
cloth to diffuse the light. 
As a support for the bromide paper take 
a fair sized box, the ever present soap box 
suggesting itself here, and nail 2 uprights 
to its sides. To the upper end of these 
fasten a small drawing board or something 
similar, so that its flat side is parallel to 
the window. The center of this board 
should be at the same height as the lens 
when the camera is in position on its shelf. 
This board should be covered with smooth 
white paper pasted on, to make a good sur- 
face on which to focus. 
Bore a hole in a small square piece of % 
inch wood, which will fit easily over the 
end of your lens, and over this hole fasten 
a square of yellow glass. 
To make an enlargement, darken all the 
windows and put the camera in position. 
neg the chosen negative into place in the 
Ox 
the camera. Place the soap box easel in 
inverted, and with the film side next’ 
459 
position in front of the lens. A heavy 
stone or a flatiron in the box will help 
to hold it steady. By shifting the relative 
positions of lens and easel you will be able 
to get any degree of enlargement. Use the 
lens wide open for focussing and when a 
sharp focus has been obtained stop down to 
say I-16. 
Slip the yellow glass cap over the lens 
and pin a small strip of bromide paper on 
the easel. Remove the lens cap for say 
30 seconds. Cap the lens and develop the 
test strip. 
Bromide paper is somewhat slower in 
development than gaslight paper (velox, 
rotox, etc.), but still much faster than a 
dry plate. 
If your test strip shows a correct ex- 
posure you may proceed to pin a full sized 
sheet on the easel and expose as before. 
The object of the yellow glass cap is now 
apparent, for it allows enough light to pass 
to permit of accurate adjustment of the pa- 
per without risk of fogging it. Thin 
parts may be held back by shielding with a 
card during part of the exposure and con- 
versely over dense spots may be brought 
out by giving them extra exposure by 
means of a cardboard shield with a hole 
cut in it which is held over the dense part, 
gently moving it so as to avoid making a 
sharp tine on the print. 
Any of the various brands of bromide 
paper on the market will give good results. 
The Eastman Kodak Co. makes paper that 
is reliable in every respect. The hard, or 
slower working, grade will prove the best 
for general use. 
Amidol or M-2 developer will prove 
satisfactory, and I prefer an acid fixed bath, 
such as is recommended by the makers of. 
gaslight paper. 
Japanned iron trays are the most satis- 
factory for this work. They are light, their 
cost is small compared with trays made of 
other materiais, and with an _ occasional 
coat of bicycle enamel or asphalt varnish 
they will last a long time. 
li at any time more detailed informa- 
tion is desired I shall be glad to give what 
help I can, either through RECREATION or 
by personal letter. 
C. M. Whitney, Bayonne, N. J. 

A NEW SPORT. 
D’LAURIE. 
How many of RecreEaTION’s readers are 
egg collectors? Some, I am sure. To 
them I propose a new and exciting sport, 
a game in which both they and the birds 
will be winners; for while they will get 
nests and eggs, the birds will yet retain 
them. This sport is made possible by the 
camera. 
My interest in bird photography dates 
