AMATEUR PHOTOGRAPHY. 



243 



camera department of Recreation, i.e., 

 to have subscribers send in one print each, 

 of a uniform size, with full particulars re- 

 garding it, print to be of same class as 

 those entered in your competitions or other- 

 wise, not to have been published or entered 

 in any contest, and to give full particulars 

 as to camera, lens, stop, plate, exposure, 

 paper, etc. When all prints are in, say ioo, 

 mount in substantial, light weight album. 

 Album then to be started on rounds from 

 one member to another, each to pay the 

 postage to the next, which would not be 

 over 10 cents on a ioo page 4x5 album, and 

 to keep the album not over 2 nights. The 

 oute sheet should be written up by adjoin- 

 ing States. This would not take so long 

 as if the "first come, first served" plan 

 should be followed. 



If satisfactory to you I would be willing 

 to conduct this album ; i.e., the prints could 

 be sent to me. I would write up a key to 

 be mailed separately, also a route sheet, 

 and would attend to any necessary corre- 

 spondence. For doing this I should expect 

 to keep the album after it had gone the 

 rounds. Of course it would be somewhat 

 soiled and worn. If you would prefer to 

 attend to the album at your office I should 

 be glad to contribute a print, and you could 

 put me last on the route sheet. 



H. R. Pfaff, Jennings, Ala. 



ANSWER. 



We will consider Mr. Pfaff's proposition 

 as having been settled upon, with this con- 

 dition : that each person contributing to the 

 album shall send 2 prints, in order that a 

 duplicate album may be made, for use in 

 case the original shall be lost. 



All readers of Recreation who are ama- 

 teur photographers are requested to send 

 Mr. Pfaff 2 prints from one of the best 

 negatives. - 



Recreation will furnish the album, and 

 as soon as the route is made up for a single 

 State, it will be printed in the photo depart- 

 ment of Recreation. Any suggestions 

 which readers of Recreation may see fit to 

 offer will be gladly accepted, and if found 

 of interest will be printed in this depart 

 ment. — Editor. 



TO COLOR PRINTS RED. 



How can I get purple or reddish tones 

 on Solio paper? 



Lauritz Smith, Moscow, Idaho. 



ANSWER. 



To get purple tones on Solio, wash the 

 prints thoroughly before toning, then tone 

 in a bath made by adding to one grain of 

 gold in solution, enough borax to make it 

 a trifle alkaline. To this add 8 ounces of 

 water. When toned, throw the prints in 

 water having a teaspoonful of salt to the 

 pint, rinse and fix. R«ddish tones will 



appear first, then purple. For reddish 

 browns add 10 grains acetate of soda. If 

 you want an out and out red, following 

 is the latest German formula for a red 

 that will set your clothes on fire : 



Ammonium sulphocya- 



nide 5 grains 



Iodide of potassium.. V* to \ l /z grains 



Chloride of gold solu- 

 tion (1:100) 25 cubic centimeters 



Water 1 liter 



The pictures should be a little overprint- 

 ed, and washed a few minutes in 2 or 3 

 changes of water before toning. If the 

 small quantity of iodide of potassium, as 

 given in the formula, is used, the time of 

 toning will take one to 2 hours ; but with 

 the maximum quantity not more than 20 

 minutes. The toning is carried until the 

 deeper parts of the picture show a carmine 

 red color. The reversed side of the print 

 becomes gray blue in this bath, but this dis- 

 appears entirely in the fixing bath. The 

 fixing bath is applied in the normal way. 

 The carmine red tone remains unchanged 

 in the fixing bath. The print increases in 

 strength during drying. Pictures which be- 

 come too strong, can be reduced again by 

 application of a weak bath of iodide and 

 cyanide of potassium solution. The toning 

 hath with iodide of potassium acts best in 

 a fresh condition. It should be used only 

 once. 



TO DEVELOP FILMS. 

 What is the best developer for snap 

 shots that are slightly under exposed? 

 Is pyro more liable to stain films than 

 plates? Can films that are several months 

 old be intensified? What would you 

 recommend as an intensifying agent? 



J. H. Wood, Stonyford, N. Y. 



ANSWER. 



A weak pyro or ortol developer is best 

 for under exposed snap shots. Make it up 

 to normal strength, then add 2 ounces more 

 of water to each 4 ounces of developer. 

 This requires patience, but it gives far the 

 best results. Many think that since the 

 plate had a short exposure the strongest 

 kind of developer should be used so as to 

 bring up all detail. This is wrong. Weak 

 developer affords the most detail and the 

 best printing negatives. 



Pyro stains films with identically the 

 same avidity that it does plates. I do not 

 notice any more stain on films than on 

 plates. You should not worry about the 

 stain as it often is the salvation of a thin, 

 weak negative. If one has a good, vigor- 

 ous negative and the pyro stain is left in, 

 it will be too harsh. You should use a 

 dram of saturated solution of tartaric acid 

 in 8 ounces of water and soak the plate, 

 after fixing in it until all stain is removed. 



