AMATEUR PHOTOGRAPHY. 



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AMATEUR PHOTOGRAPHY. 



RECREATION'S FOURTH ANNUAL COMPETI- 

 TION. 



Recreation has conducted 3 amateur 

 photographic competitions, all of which 

 have been eminently successful. A fourth 

 is now on, which it is believed will be far 

 more fruitful than either of the others. 

 This one opened on January 1, '99, and will 

 close September 30, '99. 



Following is a list of prizes: 



First prize: A Reflex camera, 5x7, 

 made by the Reflex Camera Co., Yonkers, 

 N. Y., with Zeiss anastigmat lens, and listed 

 at $80 ; 



Second prize : A wide angle Wizard cam- 

 era, made by the Manhattan Optical Co., 

 Cresskill, N. J., with double swing, size 6% 

 x &y 2 , and listed at $60; 



Third prize : A Korona camera, series 2, 

 5x7, manufactured by the Gundlach Op- 

 tical Co., Rochester, N. Y., and listed at 

 $27; 



Fourth prize: A split bamboo fly rod, 

 listed at $25 ; 



Fifth prize : A lady's or gentleman's 

 hunting case gold watch, listed at $20; 



Sixth prize : An Acme Rotary Burnisher, 

 made by the Acme Burnisher Co., Fulton, 

 N. Y., and listed at $12; 



Seventh prize : A Bristol steel fishing rod, 

 made by the Horton Mfg. Co., Bristol, Ct, 

 and listed at $8; 



Eighth prize : A Baby Hawkeye Camera, 

 made by the Blair Camera Co., Boston, 

 Mass., and listed at $6. 



The 10 next best pictures will each be 

 awarded, one gross Eastman Solio paper, 

 made by the Eastman Kodak Co., Roches- 

 ter, N. Y. ; 



The 10 next best pictures will each be 

 awarded one dozen carbutt plates, made by 

 the Carbutt Dry Plate Co., Wayne Junc- 

 tion, Philadelphia, Pa. ; 



The 10 next best pictures will each be 

 awarded a year's subscription to Recrea- 

 tion. 



Subjects are limited to wild animals, 

 birds, fishes, camp scenes, and to figures 

 or groups of persons, or domestic animals, 

 representing, in a truthful manner, shoot- 

 ing, fishing, amateur photography, bicy- 

 cling, sailing, or other form of outdoor or 

 indoor sport or recreation. Cycling pictures 

 especially desired. Awards to be made by 3 

 judges, none of whom shall be competitors. 



Conditions : Contestants must submit 2 

 mounted prints, either silver, bromide, 

 platinum, or carbon, or Solio, of each sub- 

 ject, which shall become the property of 

 Recreation. The name and address of the 

 sender, and title of picture to be plainly 

 written on back of each print. Daylight, 

 flashlight, or electric light pictures ad- 

 missible. Prize winning photographs to be 

 published in Recreation, full credit being 

 given in all cases. 



Pictures that have been published else- 

 where, or that have been entered in any 

 other competition, not available. No entry 

 fee charged. 



Don't let people who pose for you look at 

 the camera. Occupy them in some other 

 way. Many otherwise fine pictures failed 

 to win in the last competition, because the 

 makers did not heed this warning. 



Write on back of each print the title 

 thereof ; your name and address ; name of 

 camera, lens, and plate used; size of stop 

 and time of exposure. 



HINTS ON THE MANIPULATION OF KODAK 

 FILMS. 



The following details of the method I have 

 adopted in developing films, says an Eng- 

 lish writer, may be useful to amateurs. 



Having experienced some difficulty in de- 

 veloping the films cut singly, I decided to try 

 developing 6 at a time in a long dish. This 

 I have found most expeditious and satisfac- 

 tory. 



My dishes, for a strip of 6, 4 by 5 films, are 

 26 inches long by s l A inches wide, made of 

 hard wood, well painted with waterproof 

 paint, and a glass panel, 20 inches by 5 

 inches, let into the centre of the bottom of 

 dish. This enables one to judge density of 

 film without necessity of removing it from 

 developer. 



Provided with 2 such dishes and a box of 

 Primus bromide pins, I have found the de- 

 velopment of roll films a pleasure instead of 

 a trouble. I have always used the Eastman 

 pyro-soda developer, which, in my hands, 

 has worked admirably; the only drawback 

 to it is the liability to stain the fingers. 

 This can, to a great extent, be avoided by al- 

 ways rinsing the hands in clear water when 

 any developer comes in contact with them. 

 It is when the pyro is allowed to dry and ox- 

 idize that the stains are caused. 



When everything is in order in the dark- 

 room, mix up the developer thus: 2 ounces 

 No. 1; 1 ounce No. 2; 4 ounces water. 

 (Note, only half the quantity of No. 2 is 

 used.) Unroll the spool and cut off 6 ex- 

 posures in one strip. Pin this with the bro- 

 mide pins in developing dish. With a quick 

 motion pour the developer over the film, 

 rocking the dish, and seeing that the devel- 

 oper covers the whole of the surface. Par- 

 ticular notice should be given to the sides 

 of film, as sometimes these curl up and do 

 not get covered; but once they are covered, 

 the whole strip lies flat. From the shape of 

 the dish, gentle rocking causes the developer 

 to flow evenly over the film. In most cases 

 I have found the 1 ounce of accelerator suf- 

 ficient to finish development. However, 

 should any exposures hold back I finish off 

 those that appear to be developing all right, 

 cut them off, rinse in clean water, and pin 

 them down in the other long dish, previously 

 filled with hypo. If any now require more 

 No. 2, pour back the developer into meas- 



