1 62 



RECREATION. 



by a dealer, but that was expensive and 

 unsatisfactory. Finally I went to a travel- 

 ing photographer and after spending 3 days 

 in his temporary studio under his instruc- 

 tions I could turn out a good negative and 

 develop it satisfactorily. 



When I first bought my supplies, I paid 

 50 cents a dozen for plates, 20 cents a 

 dozen for printing paper, 25 cents for 8 

 ounces of developer, 25 cents for 8 ounces 

 of toning solution and for other things ac- 

 cordingly. Now I buy my plates for 32 

 cents a dozen, printing paper for $1.25 

 gross, make my own developer, for about 

 30 cents for 8 ounces, my toning solution 

 for about this same price, etc. Cornwall & 

 Jespersen, 310 Broadway, New York, are 

 noted for giving their customers just treat- 

 ment and full value for their money. 



The following formulae are good for de- 

 veloping and toning solution : 



PYRO FORMULA. 



1. Water, 32 oz. ; pyro, 1 oz. ; oxalic, 20 

 gr. 2. Sulphite of soda (cryst.), 50 hyd- 

 test. 3. Carbonate of soda (cryst.), 25 

 hydtest. 



To develop add 6 ounces of water to one 

 ounce each of 2 and 3. This can be made 

 at a small cost and gives excellent results. 



STOCK SOLUTION A. 



Hyposulphite of soda, 8 oz. ; alum 

 (cryst.), 6 oz. ; sugar (granulated), 2 oz. ; 

 water, 80 ounces. 



Dissolve above in cold water, and when 

 dissolved add borax, 2 ounces, dissolved in 

 hot water, 8 ounces. Let it stand over 

 night and decant clear liquid. 



STOCK SOLUTION B. 



Pure chloride of gold, 7^ grains : acetate 

 of lead (sugar of lead), 64 grains; water, 

 8 ounces. 



Solution B should be shaken before using 

 and not filtered. 



To tone 15 cabinets take: Stock solu- 

 tion A, 8 ounces ; stock solution B, 1 ounce. 

 Place prints in this bath and tone to de- 

 sired color and then immerse prints in fol- 

 lowing solution for 5 minutes : salt, 1 

 ounce ; water, s 2 ounces. 



EXTRA FIXING BATH. 



Hyposulphite of soda, 1 ounce; sulphite 

 of soda (cryst.), 60 ounces; borax, 34 

 ounce; water, 20 ounces. 



Wash one hour in running water. 



E. G. Fadden, Quebec. 



SUGGESTIONS FOR DEVELOPING. 



One of the things with which I had a 

 great deal of trouble before I discovered 

 the remedy was the development of Velox, 

 Dekko and kindred papers. 



Good results I obtained, but only by 

 catlike watchfulness of the developing 

 prints, and by a sort of a sleight of hand 

 movement, when they had developed far 

 enough. Of course 9 out of 10 of your read- 

 ers will say at once, "What did he expose 



them so long for?" and they are quite 

 right, but few realize how little exposure 

 is necessary. The secret of the whole mat- 

 ter is that if a print is timed just right, one 

 would have great difficulty in over develop- 

 ing it. I use M. Q. developer and add one 

 drop of 10 per cent, solution of bromide of 

 potassium to each ounce of water. With 

 this mixture one can develop 10 or 15 

 prints simultaneously and if they are timed 

 correctly they will develop to the correct 

 point and then stop, a 5 or 10 minute 

 soaking in the developer having no appre- 

 ciable effect on them. 



Mr. Carbutt gave me a tip the other 

 day on developing interiors where a view 

 showed through the windows. 



He said to soak the plate in a 10 per 

 cent, solution of hypo and wipe with a 

 tuft of cotton. Then work over the win- 

 dows with ferri-cyanide, using a camels' 

 hair brush. By that method of reduction, 

 one can so manipulate the plate that the 

 view through the window can be preserved 

 in the finished print. 



Another method of reduction for over 

 exposed plates, recommend by Mr. Ives, 

 is as follows : Develop the over exposed 

 plate until it is as black as a piece of black 

 rubber. Then soak in a strong Farmer's 

 solution until it is reduced to the desired 

 point. The Farmer's solution has the pe- 

 culiar property of clearing the high lights 

 faster than the shadows, and in many cases 

 the resultant print from a plate treated in 

 that fashion, can with difficulty be told 

 from one taken from a plate that had been 

 given the normal exposure. 



You will not have so many over ex- 

 posures if you use an exposure meter, but 

 don't get one that depends on solio paper 

 for its readings. I had one and I know 

 whereof I speak. What with lightstruck 

 paper, old paper, forgotten paper, paper of 

 different brands, etc., I was nearly driven 

 wild. I am now using an exposure meter 

 built on a scientific principle and am having 

 excellent results. For the benefit of those 

 who don't know of it I will say that its 

 name is the Wager Exposure Scale, and it 

 is advertised in Recreation. 



Howard Rhode, Philadelphia, Pa. 



BLUE TRANSPARENCIES. 

 G. L. ABELL. 



Blue transparencies may be made by the 

 use of the well known blue print formula 

 and dry plates either exposed or unex- 

 posed and not developed. 



Blue Print Formula. 



A. 

 Red prussiate of potash.... 1 ounce. 

 Water 10 ounces. 



B. 

 Citrate of iron and ammonia. 3 ounces. 

 Water io ounces. 



