BADGES AND COSTUMES. 185 



darins of letters have birds on tlieir Habit embroidered in 

 Gold, to distinguish tlieir rank; the Mandarins of the 

 Army have Animals, as the Dragon, the Lion, the Tiger,&quot; 

 and that &quot; by these Marks of Honour the People know 

 the Rank these officers have in the nine Degrees of the 

 State; &quot; we can scarcely draw any other conclusion than 

 that this use of animal-symbols, however much it has de 

 viated from its original use, arose from the primitive 

 system of tribal naming and consequent tribal badges. 

 And rinding that during early times in Europe, coats of 

 arms were similarly emblazoned upon the dresses, as well 

 as otherwise displayed, we must infer that whether painted 

 on coach-panels, chased on plate, or cut on seals, these 

 family-marks among ourselves have a kindred deriva 

 tion. 



412. Civilized usages obscure the truth that men 

 were not originally prompted to clothe themselves by either 

 the desire for warmth or the thought of decency. When 

 Speke tells us that the Africans attending him, donning 

 with pride their goat-skin mantles when it was fine, took 

 them off when it rained, and went about naked and shiver 

 ing; or when we read in Heuglin that &quot; among the Schiluk 

 the men go quite naked, even their sultan and his wezir ap 

 pear in a kind of parti-coloured shirt, only during official in 

 terviews and on festive occasions; &quot; we are shown that the 

 dress, like the badge, is at first worn from the wish for ad 

 miration. 



Some of the facts already given concerning American 

 Indians, who wear as marks of honour the skins of formi 

 dable animals they have killed, suggest that the badge and 

 the dress have a common root, and that the dress is, at any 

 rate in some cases, a collateral development of the badge. 

 There is evidence that it was so with early European races. 

 In their Life of the Greeks and Romans, Guhl and Koner 

 remark : 



