BADGES AND COSTUMES. 187 



to multiply this important article of raiment [shirts] by 

 putting 011 a second over the first and a third over the sec 

 ond.^ 



That there simultaneously arise differences in the forms 

 and in qualities of the dresses worn by rulers and ruled, 

 scarcely needs saying. Obviously, the partial dress of the 

 slave must become distinguished by shape as well as by 

 amount, from the complete dress of the master; and ob 

 viously, the clothing allowed to him as a slave will be 

 relatively coarse. But beyond the distinctions thus marking 

 rank in early stages, there must in later stages habitually 

 arise further such distinctions. As wars between small 

 societies end from time to time in subjugation, it must hap 

 pen that when the dress of the ruling class of the con 

 quering society differs from that of the ruling class of the 

 society conquered, it will become distinctive of the new and 

 higher ruling class. There is evidence that contrasts were 

 thus initiated during the spread of the Romans. Those 

 inhabitants of Gaul who were inscribed Roman citizens, 

 wore the Roman costume, and formed a privileged order. 

 &quot; The Gallo-Romans, who were incomparably the more 

 numerous . . . were obliged to dress otherwise : &quot; freemen 

 meanwhile being distinguished from slaves, and slaves from 

 coloni, by their mantles. 



Distinctions of rank naturally come to be marked by the 

 colours of dresses, as well as by their quantities, qualities, 

 and shapes. The coarse fabrics worn by the servile classes, 

 must as a matter of -course be characterized by those dull 

 colours possessed by the raw materials used; as happened 

 in Rome, where &quot; only poor people, slaves and freedmen, 

 wore dresses of the natural brown or black colour of the 

 wool.&quot; Consequently, bright colours will habitually distin 

 guish the dresses of the ruling classes, able to spend money 

 on costly dyes. Illustrations come from many countries. 

 In Madagascar the use of a &quot; dress of entire scarlet is the 

 prerogative of the sovereign alone.&quot; In Siam &quot; the Prince, 



