188 CEREMONIAL INSTITUTIONS. 



and all wlio follow him in war or the chase, arc clothed in 

 red.&quot; &quot; The Kututuchtu [.Mongol pontiff] and his lamas 

 are all clothed in yellow, and no layman is allowed to wear 

 this colour except the prince.&quot; In China also, yellow is the 

 imperial colour, limited to the emperor and his clan; and 

 among the Chinese other colours, crimson, green, &c., 

 mark potentates of divers grades, while sashes and caps of 

 various bright hues are marks of rank. Then in Europe we 

 have, during the last years of the Roman republic, the wear 

 ing of scarlet, violet, and purple, by men of the wealth 

 ier classes; ending in the purple of special quality distinc 

 tive of the emperor, when his supremacy became established 

 And among later peoples like causes have effected like dis 

 tinctions. In mediieval France scarlet, as the most costly 

 colour, was worn exclusively by princes, knights, and women 

 of high rank. &quot; i The laws ordain that no one shall wear 

 purple, which signifies exalted rank, except the nobles. 

 Froissart, speaking of Artevelle, chief of the revolted Gan- 

 tese, says that ( he Avas clothed in sanguine robes and in 

 scarlet, like the Duke of Brabant and the Count of Hai- 

 naut. &quot; 



Of course with that development of ceremonial control 

 which goes along with elaboration of political structure, 

 differences of quantity, quality, shape and colour, are united 

 to produce dresses distinctive of classes. This trait is most 

 marked where the rule is most despotic; as in China where 

 &quot; between the highest mandarin or prime minister, and the 

 lowest constable, there are nine classes, each distinguished 

 by a dress peculiar to itself; &quot; as in Japan, where the at 

 tendants of the ]\Iikado &quot; are clad after a particular fashion 

 . . . and there is so much difference even among them 

 selves, as to their habits, that thereby alone it is easily 

 known what rank they are of, or what employment they 

 have at Court; &quot; and as in European countries during 

 times of unchecked personal government, when each class 

 had its distinctive costume. 



