GLACIER, CREVASSES AND PEAKS NORTHWARD FROM THUMB ROCK. 



adopted the usual schedule in climbing 

 the Southern face of the mountain : to the 

 timber line by trail, on horseback, the after- 

 noon of the first day; on foot to the sum- 

 mit of the mountain, and returning to camp 

 the second day ; camping the second night, 

 and returning to Sisson the morning of the 

 third day. 



We left Sisson at 3.30 p. m., carrying our 

 blankets, food and duffle with us on the 

 saddle-horses. The journey of 8 miles to 

 Horse Camp (elevation 8,000 feet), near 

 the timber line, was over an easy trail 

 through timber and occasional patches of 

 thick underbrush. After caring for the 

 horses, we prepared supper, and at 8 o'clock 

 we were rolled up in our blankets trying 

 to go to sleep. Emmons carried an alarm 

 watch which he set for 3 o'clock. The in- 

 stant it went off we were up and bustling 

 around to get an early start. The horses 

 were watered and tethered at a fresh place, 

 breakfast was disposed of, and, just at 

 dawn, we were ready for the long pull 

 up the mountain. Before starting, Em- 

 mons took from a bag, which had wonder- 

 ful resources, a large bottle of vaselene 

 and began applying it generously over his 

 face, neck, ears and hands. 



"What are you doing that for?" I asked. 



"To prevent sunburning," he said. "If 

 you do as I do, I'll guarantee you'll not 

 get sunburnt." 



I followed his example, with little en- 

 thusiasm, but the vaselene was only the 

 priming coat. From the all-sufficient bag 

 next came a small, white sack filled with 

 corks. These Errfrnonj? emptied into the 

 glowing coals of the camp fire, stirring them 

 around until they were well burned on the 

 outside. Scratching them out of the fire, 

 he took a handful, as soon as they had 



cooled sufficiently, rubbed the black off the 

 corks on his hands, and then applied it to 

 his face, ears, neck, etc., over the vaselene. 

 It was heroic treatment, but I soon was as 

 black as the proverbial ace of spades. For 

 10 or 15 minutes I felt as if I had been 

 dipped with a bowl of molasses, but after 

 that the "mussy" feeling wore away, some- 

 what ,and I felt less uncomfortable. 



This treatment for sunburning, on in- 

 vestigation, was found to be scientifically 

 correct. Sunburning results when the skin 

 is exposed to brighter light than that to 

 which it is^ accustomed. The application 

 of vaselene fills the pores of the skin and, 

 by preventing the charcoal from getting 

 into them, facilitates the removal and 

 cleansing process, later. The blacking, by 

 excluding the light, protects the skin per- 

 fectly. 



My costume consisted of a close knit 

 blue woolen shirt, tweed trousers, wool un-' 

 derclothing, 2 pairs heavy wool socks, 

 heavy, broad soled shoes with spikes, light, 

 pliable leather leo-eings, a soft felt hat, 

 with 2.V2 inch brim, woolen mittens, and 

 smoked glass goggles. I carried an alpen- 

 stock, a 5x7 Premo camera, an aneroid 

 barometer, and sandwiches. Emmons pro- 

 tested against the camera, and was positive 

 I would never reach the top if I insisted 

 on carrying it ; but I wanted the photo- 

 graphs, and decided to take it with me. 



We started up the gulch in which Horse 

 Camp is located, walking on loose rock for 

 over half a mile. The sides of the gulch 

 are 2 lines of ragged cliffs, the West side 

 having precipitous faces. At 9,000 feet we 

 found snow in the bottom of the gulch. 

 This was hard, from frequent freezing and 

 thawing, and made much more comfortable 

 footing than the loose rock. As we con- 



