3^4 



RECREATION 



We may add water to the developer, or use 

 it stronger, or add more alkali, thus changing 

 the time of appearance, but this will not alter 

 the factor for that particular developer. If 

 the time of appearance is shorter, the total 

 duration of development is shorter, and so 

 on. This method also obviates the handling 

 of the plate during development by exami- 

 nation, and keeps the fingers from staining, 

 as, for instance, with pyro. We can cover 

 the plate and tray over as soon as we have 

 noted the time of appearance and when the 

 total time has elapsed, take the plate out, 

 rinse it and fix it without even looking at 

 it, knowing that if our exposure has been 

 correct within certain limits, we . have ob- 

 tained a good negative. 



Every developer has its factor, some large 

 and some small. Here are the factors for the 

 generally used developers : 



Hydrochinon 5 



Glycin 7 



Eikonogen 9 



Pyrocatechin io 



Ortol :■: io 



Pyro (average) io 



Amidol 18 



Edinol 20 



Edinol-Hydrochinon 15 



" Metpl 30 



Metol-Hydrochinon 15-18 



Modinal 40 



The above are the numbers with which the 

 time of appearance, as explained above, must 

 be multiplied to give a fully developed 

 image. Simple, isn't it? 



April is the best month of the year in 

 which to take cloud negatives. It is difficult 

 to get good clouds in landscape negatives 

 unless the landscape is considerably under- 

 exposed, and a white sky in a landscape 

 picture is both untrue and unpleasing to 

 look at. This can always be remedied by 

 having one or two good cloud negatives at 

 hand from which to print in the sky part 

 (we'll tell you next month how to do that). 

 In taking cloud negatives, get on as high 

 ground as possible so as to get no fore- 

 ground and a view unobstructed by trees 

 or houses. Then focus on extreme distance, 

 including only a very small part of the land- 

 scape in your picture. Use a rapid shutter 

 and stop f.22 or thereabout, and a slow plate. 

 Development should not be too prolonged; 

 it should be stopped as soon as all detail is 

 out, and sufficiently dense not to "fix out" in 

 the hypo bath. 



HOW TO AVOID BLISTERS IN BRO- 

 MIDE PRINTS. 

 The blistering of bromide and gaslight 

 papers is one of the annoying defects of these 

 otherwise excellent papers. This generally 

 happens when the washing water is too warm, 

 but can be avoided by wiping tke back of the 

 print before development, with a pad of cot- 

 ton soaked in alcohol. This is an almost sure 

 preventative. Too strong a hypo bath is also 

 apt to cause blisters. After the fixing bath 

 is made up, let it stand awhile so as to get to 

 room temperature. When hypo is dissolved 

 in water it reduces the temperature of the 

 water considerably. 



MEDITATION. 



By M. A. Yauch. 



