1868.] Notes on the Pangong lake district of Ladakli. 103 



fellow, and brought a letter from the Governor of Rudok, and a 

 white scarf, together with a present of two damuns (bricks) of tea, 

 and some sheep and goats for my men. The letter was then read 

 by the Moonshie, and was to the effect that it was not in hia power 

 to give me leave to visit Rudok, as he had strict orders from his 

 superiors in Lhassa to prevent foreigners crossing the frontier, and 

 that it would eventually be known if he permitted it. He added that 

 he could not use force to prevent my further progress, but he trusted 

 I would not lose him his appointment by so doing, and that I would 

 accept the presents as a sign of friendship. Having received orders 

 not to bring on any collision with the Chinese officials, I had to 

 give up the idea of seeing Rudok, but I held out for one more march 

 towards the place and gained my point, but not before showing 

 some anger at their absurd wishes. The Zimskang again came over 

 after my dinner about 9 o'clock at night, to beg I would not proceed 

 any further ; but I said they must abide by their first agreement. 

 The afternoon of that day I was enabled to ascend the limestone 

 mountain east of camp and fix my true position, the range around 

 Rudok and the eastern end of lake were also again visible, and I 

 was enabled to get intersections with other rays. The 5th broke 

 fortunately clear and bright, so I started early along the shore of 

 the lake in direction of Noli, my friend the Zimskang, stuck to me 

 like a leech the whole day with a few of his men, and a curiously 

 dressed rabble they were, with their enormous flat mushroom-shaped 

 hats, and all mounted on little scraggy but sturdy ponies, they were 

 all very jolly and amiable, I made no secret of my work, and showed 

 and explained the map of the lake to him, which he thoroughly 

 understood. I have found the people of Tibet far in advance of 

 Hindustan as regards drawings, and what they are intended to 

 represent. At a small hill called Tobo Nokpo, whence I had 

 promised to return the previous day, I fulfilled my agreement evident- 

 ly to the great pleasure of the Zimskang, who was now more plea- 

 sant than ever and thanked me with many salaams. On the 6th 

 August my tents were struck to leave Pal, and the Rudok men did 

 the same, I was invited over to their tents, previous to starting, to 

 partake of a parting cup of salted tea churned with butter, which 

 is always kept simmering on the fire ; it is by no means a bad beverage 



