100 The West American Scientist. 
midst of fertile plains, hasten past smaller towns, cross the Rus- 
sian river below Healdsburgh, where it turns away to the west 
to seek the coast among forests of redwood, and following its 
western bank you come to the town of Cloverdale. You are now 
near the head of the valley; the green slopes of the mountains are 
close upon you on the west and broken hills rise to the east. 
You have already passed in the distance the noble Saint Helena 
and many lesser peaks belonging to this eastern range of moun- 
tains, but here the valley has become so narrow that you are not 
surprised to learn that for many years this was the terminus of 
the railroad. Within a year, however, it has been extended some 
thirty miles further to Ukiah, the county seat of Mendocino 
county. Should you continue your excursion to that point, you 
would be amply repaid, for the road winds along the bank of the 
river in a most romantic fashion. Now you can look down into 
the clear water and see startled trout,ynow you pass under the 
boughs of giant oaks, again you are in the darkness of a tunnel, 
and in a moment look back on a huge cliff, whose base the river 
has been assaulting for centuries. The valley broadens at length, 
and the rich fields are green with hop-vines or covered with 
ripened grain or set with young fruit trees. A few miles beyond 
.the city of Ukiah the hills close in again, and you are at the 
source of the Russian river, while just across the divide are the 
brooks which flow northward and form some of the numerous 
branches of the Eel river, which empties into the ocean near 
Eureka. But this part of the journey, though interesting, is not 
essential to a visit to the Geysers. The stage for the springs. 
leaves Cloverdale soon after noon, and makes the journey of | 
eighteen miles in from three to four hours. You first cross the 
Russian river, and as you proceed to the hills you soon meet 
and ford one of its tributaries, the sulphur-tinctured Pluton. 
This stream comes down a great lateral valley trom the eastern 
hills, and along the side of this valley, first on the north and then 
onthe south, has been constructed the stage toll-road. It would 
be hard to finda wilder and more beautiful road in any of the val- 
leys of California. The curves are innumerable, the precipitous 
descents which it barely but safely avoids are sufficient to stir 
the blood of the boldest. while the grand old trees, oak, maple, 
and laurel, are majestic and inspiring. Especially as one is com- 
ing down the valley in the cool of the morning does the view 
seem superb. Were there no wonders beyond to be seen, the 
ride up and down the Pluton gorge is well worth the moderate 
price which is asked. But at length you smell sulphur, and 
know you are near the end of your journey. The hotel is be- 
fore you, a series of low but comfortable buildings in the midst 
of fine old trees, and on the other side. of the brook you get a 
glimpse of columns of steam ascending from unknown sources, 
You are anxious to explore at once, but are advised to wait till 
the early morning; meanwhile you can visit the commodious 


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