304 
KIDD’S OWN JOURNAL. 

could be got for this plant under the title of 
a fern-glass. At this season of the year 
(Christmas) the fronds are at their best; and 
for table ornaments they are unequalled. 
They are infinitely superior to an unmeaning 
bunch of cut flowers, with scarcely a green 
leaf among them, stuck by the footman in 
the epergne. 
The principal use of ferns in ornamental 
gardening, is, to fill up that unoccupied space 
which has hitherto baffled gardenersto make 
gay; namely, the shady places under high 
walls and wide-spreading trees. This is the 
kind of situation that Nature has chosen for 
a great number of species of fern; a few 
certainly there are, like Ceterach, that affect 
the airy sites of high and dry bare rocks. 
Still, the settled calm, the shady grove, and 
the damp atmosphere, are the wedded asso- 
ciates of the fern family—the dowry of the 
flowerless tribe.—ALEX. ForsyTH. 

HINTS TO AMATEUR GARDENERS. 
THE CALENDAR FOR DECEMBER. 
ALL OPERATIONS NOW must of course 
depend upon circumstances. So variable is 
our climate, that we can lay down no 
particular instructions beyond the usual 
routine of daily duties. 
THE general operations recommended for 
November apply also to this month, when 
the weather permits. Trenching, digging, &e. 
may proceed if the ground is not too wet; in 
mild weather, transplanting and pruning may 
be performed ; and in frosty weather, dung 
may be got on the ground. The store 
plants in the pit must be kept dry, and have 
full exposure whenever the weather is fair 
and not frosty; keep them free from dead 
leaves or damp litter, and loosen the surface 
soil in the pots, if it becomes hard or green. 
Take care that all the plants have perfect 
drainage. 
FLOWER GARDEN. 
Admit Air whenever a chance be given, even a 
few hours on mild times should not be lost. 
Antirrhinums.—Protect from hard frosts. 
Auriculas.—Continue to admit air, and exclude 
excess of moisture ; have mats or other covering 
material at command, in case of frosts, that 
such may be kept well in check—for although 
the Auricula is hardy, much damage will be 
certain, if frosts have free play amongst astock 
that is kept in frames or pits: cold bleak winds 
are much to be dreaded, but with all these 
precautions, let no hour be lost, when quiet and 
mild, to admit free circulation. Soil for potting 
should be frequently turned to sweeten, and 
allowed the beneficial influence of frosts; 
protect from rain. 
Bulbs.—If any are needed for forcing, some may 
be placed in a cold frame or green-house, and 
after into moderate heat. 

Camellias attend to, and supply with moisture, or 
the buds will fall off. 
Carnations. Stirring the surface soil, maintaining 
thorough cleanliness, and attending to previous 
directions, is the necessary routine. 
Chrysanthemums.—If not done towards the end 
of last month, propagate plants by taking off 
the suckers breaking up round the plants ; pot- 
ting them singly in small pots, placing them 
into a cold frame. Keep the frames close, until 
the plants are rooted or established, after which, 
remove the lights entirely. 
Cinerarias.—Where specimen plants are required 
for exhibition or otherwise, remove all suckers 
as they appear, and pinch off the heads of those 
showing bloom to induce the lateral shoots to 
push out more freely ; and give plenty of room 
to specimen plants to prevent weak and one- 
sided growth. If early flower be required, 
remove some showing for bloom into the green- 
house or forcing-house. 
Composts. Obtain, mix, expose to frosts, protect 
from wet, and have ready for immediate use at 
all times. 
Dahlia roots —See that frosts do not get to; re- 
move any that show symptoms of decay. 
F'rames.—Protect plants in, by mats or other 
covering, against hard weather. Open when 
weather allows. 
Greenhouses.—Keep free from damps, and intro- 
duce the forced flowers as they come. into per- 
fection. 
Liliums.—Prepare compost. 
Pansies must be made secure against heavy winds. 
Peg down. 
Pelargoniwms.—The latter end of this month is 
the time to stop all plants intended for flowering 
in June; after this is done let them remain 
moderately dry until they have broken nicely. 
Stop every shoot, whether long or short; or a 
straggling head of bloom will be the con- 
sequence. All shoots that are long enough 
may be trained out to admit light and air to 
the middle of the plant. 
Picotees.—Look to the directions under the head 
Carnation. 
Polyanthuses.—Similar treatment as to the 
Auricula. 
Protect against severe weather everything likely 
to be injured. 
Store-pots, remove from, all fogged cuttings and 
dead foliage. 
Tulips—Get your winter covering, hoops, 
&c., in readiness, that thorough protection from 
excessive rains or severe frosts may be secured; 
half-inch iron rods are not only the cheapest in 
the end by their durability, but by far the 
neatest forms for hooping that we know; they 
may be bent to any portion of a circle that may 
be considered the most desirable, leaving the 
ends to be forced imto the paths: a simpie pan- 
tile lath may then be stretched along the entire 
length of the bed, and secured to the rods by 
bass or string; this will form an efficient roof 
on which to place your mats or cloths for the 
necessary winter protection against heavy rains 
or severe weather; the mats &c., at all times 
being wholly removed on mild or congenial 
days. 

