GEOGRAPHICAL SURVEYS AND EXPLORATIONS. 161 



derived from the Darjeeling survey, (d) from the stations facing 

 Western Bhutan, based on the data of the Assam Longitudinal Series, 

 and (e) from the stations in Eastern Kurnaun facing Western 

 Nepal and Tibet. 



The last-named operations were conducted by Colonel Tanner in 



person, assisted by R N ■. They crossed the Lipu Lek pass 



(16,800 feet) at the north-eastern corner of Kurnaun, but were 

 ordered back by the Tibetan Governor of Taklakhar, on approach- 

 ing that place. Colonel Tanner says that the Lipu Lek pass is one 

 of the easiest between India and Tibet, and though the surrounding 

 tracts are not so populous as Eastern Tibet and the road between 

 the pass and Kurnaun most arduous, the trade in grain, salt, and 

 borax is already very considerable. The Jong Pon or Governor of 

 Taklakhar asked Colonel Tanner what object the English had in 

 making roads in Kurnaun, and why they wished to leave the beautiful 

 plains of India for such a barren country as Tibet ? How was it 

 that the English were always craving for the territories of others ? 

 Colonel Tanner replied that the English did not in the least desire 

 to occupy such a comfortless and bleak land as theirs. " Bleak, do 

 '• you call this ?" was the rejoinder, " Why, you are now in the 

 " very garden of Tibet ! If you call this barren what would you say 

 " of other parts where there is literally nothing but rock and ice? 

 " Go back now to India, you have seen the most inviting (!) part of 

 " our country, the rest is not worth a visit. Our Government don't 

 " allow the English in Tibet ; but you, one and all, try to push 

 " your way past o.ur frontier posts, and never consider that, if you 

 " succeed, our governors and officials on the frontier lose their heads 

 " for not stopping you ! " 



The scenery a few hours below the Lipu Lek is remarkably fine. 

 Below Budi, in the Kali valley, a series of stone steps or ladders 

 commences, over which the traveller has to make his way for a day 

 and a half before he reaches an ordinary mountain-path. This 

 extraordinary trade route consists of a kind of winding staircase, cut 

 into the rocky face of the cliffs, and in many places overhung with 

 crags, with a seemingly bottondess abyss below. On Colonel 

 Tanner's return to India the whole flight of steps was literally 

 crowded with thousands and thousands of laden sheep and goats, 

 making their way up into the high lands of Tibet ; and the perils were 

 increased by the sheep obstinately rushing past regardless of the 

 consequences to themselves or others. Many animals are annually 



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