56 CALLAO AND LIMA. 



had an awkward gait, and dull, stupid countenances. If they 

 are a fair specimen of the soldiers of the country, it is no won- 

 der that the Chilians have been able to conquer it so easily. 



The distance from Callao to Lima is about eight miles, and 

 stages run between the two places almost every hour in the 

 day ; the fare is one dollar. The road leads over a plain, but 

 it is not kept in good repair, and is, besides, very dusty, on 

 account of the extreme dryness of the climate. In this part 

 of Peru, there are heavy dews, but no rain. 



We had an opportunity of visiting the " City of the Kings"* 

 several times. We went up in the coaches, andi'always set out 

 at an early, hour, that we might avoid the heat of the sun and 

 the dust. During the first ten or fifteen minutes of the ride, 

 we saw nothing to interest us, for we were passing through the 

 filthy streets of Callao, and its still more filthy outskirts. Of 

 all the places we have as } 7 et visited, civilized or uncivilized, 

 Callao has been the most filthy and disgusting. When about 

 two miles out, we passed Bella Vista, which, ever since the 

 revolution, has been in ruins. 



We next came to the so-called half-way house, where the 

 drivers invariably stop to rest the horses, and to regale them- 

 seves with a glass of pisco from its dirty pulperia. This part 

 of the road was formerly infested by banditti, and no one 

 thought of appearing on it without being well armed ; but now 

 this is not necessary, as the police has taken steps to disperse 

 the robbers. 



Resuming our course, we soon reached a section of country 



* The name bestowed on the infant capital was Curdad de los Beges, or City of 

 Kings, in honor of the da)', heing the 6th of January, 1535, the Festival of Epiphany, 

 when it was said to have heen founded by Pizarro. But the Castilian name ceased to be 

 used even within the first generation,- and was supplanted by that of lima, into which 

 the original Indian name was corrupted by the Spaniards.— Prescotfs Conquest of Peru, 

 vol. ii. 



