57 



laid out in gardens, filled with all kinds of fruit-trees, shaded 

 walks, lined on either hand with stone seats, and intersected 

 with running streams of water. It is the usual evening-drive 

 of the Liniineans, and a delightful one it is. In a few minutes 

 more we found ourselves passing under the great gate of the 

 city. Its aspect is that of rapid decline ; there is no stir or 

 life among the inhabitants ; many of the shops are closed, and 

 hundreds of houses are untenanted, and in a state of decay. 

 The streets are broad and paved, and many of them have a 

 stream of water running through their centre. It is not, how- 

 ever, a clean-looking city, for these streams are used for very 

 disgusting purposes, and buzzards are seen feeding all over 

 the city. 



The style of building is well adapted to the climate and 

 nature of the country. Most of the dwellings are of two 

 stories, with a spacious court in front; the main object of 

 these courts, is to afford the inhabitants a place of refuge when 

 the city is threatened with earthquakes, which is a very fre- 

 quent occurrence. The material employed in the construction 

 of the walls, is sun-burnt brick. The roofs are perfectly flat, 

 and the ground-floor is used as store-rooms and stables. 



The population is estimated at 40,000. In the time of the 

 Viceroys, it is said to have been 70,000. 



The Grand Plaza contains several acres, and should be 

 visited by the stranger, if he wishes to form a correct idea of 

 a life in Lima. From sunrise till sunset it is filled with 

 people. On two sides of the Plaza stand the portales, or 

 arcades, where all kinds of dry -goods and fancy articles are 

 sold. The cathedral and the arch-bishop's palace occupy 

 the east side of the plaza, and that of the viceroy's the south 

 side ; this last has now become the residence of the presidents 9 

 and, although it covers a great extent of ground, there is 



