I 



1S52.1 THE PHILADELPHIA FLORIST. 175 



tee3»"~ : ^sl^ 



jjsome time. Towards the middle of May they will require fresh pot- W\ 

 _ ting into four inch pots in the same corapost as before, pressing the W 

 t soif firmly round the ball of the plant in potting. They should be \J> 

 afterwards removed to a cold pit or frame, and kept close ior t'wo» 

 weeks or more, and well shaded from the burning rays of the sun until 

 well established, when air and light may by degrees be admitted. 

 Look over them carefully at intervals and stop all those luxuriant 

 shoots that will bear it. The plants will be much benefitted by being 

 carefully shaded during the severe summer sun until their growth is 

 established. Give all the light and air possible in order tb> secure 

 vigor and healthy appearance, and to ensure the ripening of their 

 wood. They may remain without repotting till the following spring, 

 when they rnusf be shifted as the vigor of the plant may warrant. 

 About the end of June if they have flourished, they will be assisted 

 by another shift, and will still continue to increase in size if proper- 

 ly attended to, as frequent shifting is found to be the most secure 

 method of treatment and less dangerous in the hands of unskilful 

 cultivators. The following spring will produce fine young plants in 

 a fit state for flowering in six inch pots. As they increase in age, a 

 freer state of bloom is secured by adding a portion of loam to the 

 compost, making one part of loam to one of peat, with a little sand to 

 preserve the porosity of the soil. They may be induced to flower 

 earlier than usual by a little forcing, if that can conveniently be man- 

 aged, or they may at least be kept in a warm part of the green house. 



Hardy Plants in North Carolina. 



A correspondent from Fayetteville, N. C, furnishes a few notes of 

 plants which have withstood the winter in his neighborhood without 

 protection. Amongst these were Oxalis Bowii, Hedychium flavum, 

 Alstreemerias ; Pittosporum tobira, Escallonia rubra, Chinese azaleas, 

 single camellias, Aucuba japonica. They had a shady situation and 

 the soil was well drained. Severals were partially protected by put- 

 ting a few inches of charcoal dust over them such as Manettia cordi- 

 folia, Bouvardia triphylla, Erythrina Crista Galli, several species of 

 Amaryllis, Agapanthus umbellatus and Calla iEthiopica. 



Knight's double flowering Brugmansia was however cut down last 

 October, although covered with 16 inches of charcoal. It is now 

 quite vigorous, and has been in bloom since the 15th August, and is 

 6 feet high. Mttronderos sempervirens, the Cape jasmine and Olea 

 fragrans stand mild winters, but during hard frost it is necessary to 

 place a box or barrel over them. I have come to the conclusion that 

 plants intended to remain out all winter should be set out in spring, 

 that the roots may have time to get established. The chance of suc- 

 cess is increased by having the soil well drained and sufficiently rich 

 to ensure the mature growth and health of the plant in order to ripen 

 its wood. I was however, unsuccessful with a few which I risked 

 without protectiou, such as Viburnum tinus (Laurustinus), Manettia 

 cordifolia, Erythrina crista-Galli, Amaryllis and Bouvardia. Aloysia 

 citriodora and the Hydrangeas were killed down. They came up 

 however in spring, but the latter did not bloom. If the foregoing 

 notes of my experience should prove of any service to your readers 

 I you are at liberty to use them ; but as 1 have not much facility for 

 r - > increasing rny Horticultural knowledge in this locality, you must t 

 A excuse my not furnishing more valuable information, indeed I cannot 9\ 

 (% boast of many participants in the pleasant pursuit. C. Lutterloh. si 



