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1853.] THE PHILADELPHIA FLORIST. 265 



^ Will arrest its progress, but it requires to be applied very carefully or r ® 

 P it will kill the points of the shoots and the young leaves, particularly 

 if the sun is out after syringing. I have seen vines completely 

 scorched with it, and if you don't hurt the vines with it, the spots will 

 turn brown and eventually dry up, giving the vines a very unhealthy 

 appearance. Flower of sulphur dusted on the affected parts will al- 

 so stop it for the time being, to be performed again on its next ap- 

 pearance When, however, the fruit attains a certain stage of ma- 

 turity few persons are disposed to apply the sulphur, and for this 

 reason care should be taken to have it exterminated before that ad- 

 vanced period of the operations. A high and dry temperature, with 

 the use of sulphur, will be certain to check the mildew. 



J. P, 



THE CHRYSANTHEMUM, 



Mr. Editor. — iVs the season of hardy flowers is nearly past, "the 

 last rose of summer being faded and gone," and little left to adorn the 

 flower border and greenhouse but this useful and highly ornamental 

 plant, blooming as it does at a season when other flowers are scarce, 

 and combining in the genus so many varied and beautiful colors \ at 

 the same time so freely that under very ordinary treatment it amply 

 repays the cultivator. Yet although naturally a free bloomer it can 

 be very much improved by cultivation 5 and my object in soliciting 

 a small space in your pages, is to give some of your amateur friends a 

 few useful hints relative to the pot culture of this plant, and also a 

 slight description of some of the best and newest sorts. 



To grow the Chrysanthemum well, the plants should be raised eVerjr 

 season from cuttings or side shoots taken from the old plants about the 

 end of April, planted in four inch pots in light sandy loam, put into a 

 greenhouse or frame, with a slight shade from the sun until established , 

 when the shading may be removed. When the plants have grown to 

 the height of six or eight inches, top them, and if roots are forming 

 round the sides of the pots, shift them into six inch pots, using a com* 

 post of turfy loam, well rotted manure and sand ; plenty of air should 

 be admitted at all times, and the plants kept free of each other, as 

 they are apt to get drawn and lose their lower leaves if too much 

 crowded. When roots are showing through this last shift, they may 

 at once be put into their blooming pots, which should not be less than 

 nine inches for Pompones, and twelve inches for tall growing sorts. 

 The shoots require to be staked out to prevent their being broken, to 

 keep the plant m shape, and admit light and air, A situation in the 

 VL open air should now be chosen where the plants will be fully exposed 

 c^to the sun and at the same time sheltered from high winds} plunge the'SN 



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