$o6 



FOREST ANt> STREAM. 



[JntY #7. 1S82. 



fishing near there is good, especially near Poncho Springs, 



but we did not try it. W had been there the year before, 



and siid he caurht a fine lot of trout. It was not a long 

 ride to Buena Vista, Arriving at the end of a railroad in 

 the West is an event in a person's life to be remembered, for 

 there are not many such places in the world. When we ar- 

 rived at Buena Vista things were not at their height, as the 

 railroad was rapidly pushing on to Leadville, and the town 

 Was beginning to "drop'' a little. Still, there was eonsider- 

 erablc excitement. Every train brought its load of people 

 hound for Leadville, the Gunnison, etc" At night the saloons 

 and dau e-houses were in full blast, and it was a "cold day" 

 that one or more shooting scrapes did not take place. Our 

 freight did not arrive as soon as we. expected, and we had 

 several days at our disposal to look around. We tried the 

 trout in the Cottonwood, but the water was too high, the 



stream too well fished, or we were out of luck, and W 



was the only one who managed to catch anything, and he 

 only caught a litUc one. I voted trout fishing a bore, always 

 thought so, would prefer any day to sit in a boat and catch 

 perch and bass, etc. But how liable we all are to change 

 our minds. I did mine before I left Colorado, as the sequel 

 will show. 



Not hearing very encouraging reports from the Gunnison 

 country, and the snow in the pass being reported very deep, 

 we changed our intentions and hired a freighter to take us to 

 Kokomo via Leadville. Loading all our traps on two wagons, 

 one a trailer as it is called, beiug tied on to the rear of the 

 other, so that in case of bad hills or places on the road it can 

 be left and hauled up alone. We started one warm after- 

 noon through the dust for Leadville. For months all the 

 traffic between Leadville and Denver and Pueblo, had been 

 done by freighters, and the road was cut up until it was four 

 and five inches deep with dust, When a stage drove past 

 you could hardly see it through the clouds of dust it stirred 

 up. , This, added to bad bridges, mud holes, rocky roads and 

 steep hills, made the trip very interesting. And yet over 

 rche same roads had been transported millions of* dollars' 

 worth of all kinds of merchandise, machinery, and in fact 

 everything that can be conceived of. A person visiting some 

 of the saloons, etc., of Leadville, after passing over the 

 road, and there seeing the mirrors,' furniture, glassware, etc., 

 would wonder how any of it ever got through safely. The 

 freighter is a queer subject — take this one sitting astride oi 

 his wheel mule, with his "black snake" coiled round his 

 neck— whistling to this mule, swearing at that one, driving 

 his four, six, eight, ten. sometimes fourteen and sixteen 

 mules with one rein and lots of swearing, but still driving 

 them as easily as a person at the East handles one horse. 

 He is dirty and ragged. Freighters never wash while on the 

 road (that is with few exceptions), and a "harder" lot of 

 citizens it is hard to fiud. Tne railroad has done away with 

 the freighters on the road to Leadville, and where one could 

 see long trains of heavily loaded wagons moving slowly 

 along, climbing wearily the steep mountains, they now see 

 the little puffing, hissing, steamiDg narrow gauge engines. 

 Still a person can find plenty o£ freighters in Colorado 

 today, if they desire to try the experience of a trip with them. 



We were about two days in reaching Leadville, thirty- 

 eight miles; that was fair time. We found Leadville under 

 martial law, it being the time of the labor troubles. While 

 passing on one of the streets I saw a man attempt to escape 

 from the jail yard, which was nothing but a large corral or 

 yard inclosed with a high board fence. The first intimation 

 I had of the occurrence was hearing the sound of two shots 

 in quick succession, and then seeing a man running round 

 the corner, followed by another witlThis pistol covering him 

 and sh auting "Stop him!" As I was in direct range, 1 

 thought it would be safer behind something; so I retreated 

 behind an iron pillar in a doorway and awaited further de- 

 velopments. The street was full of armed men in a moment, 

 and revolvers, guns, swords, etc., were flourished in all di- 

 rections. Nothing came of the affair, however, and the 

 poor devil was thrust back into the corral and people went 

 about their business. Leadville is a wonderful city among 

 the many wonderful cities of the West, and a person can 

 spend a week there very pleasantly, visiting the various 

 smelters and other objects of interest. Only a short dis- 

 tance from Leadville by wagou is Twin Lake's, where go.. d 

 trout fishing, and formerly hunting, could be had. but it is 

 becoming too much of a resort for the population of the city 



for game to abound. The summer before W had killed 



two deer while camping there. 



We did not make a long stay in Leadville, as we con- 

 cluded it was not healthy enough for us. Pneumonia was tak- 

 ing off a good many, and W.'s lungs were weak. We, had to 

 leave him as it was, to follow us by stage, From Leadville 

 to Kokomo a person can now go by rail, but at this time the 

 road was not Finished. It is mostly up hill work, though the 

 difference of e'evatioii is only about one thousandfeet. Herea 

 person really crosses the "backbone" of the continent, as on 

 one side the Arkansas springs up and starts on its long 

 journey toward the Atlantic, on the other Ten Mile Greek is 

 fed by the snows of the range and sent bubbling toward the 

 Pacific. People generally think they must go where the 

 ground is low to find water, but here, at the elcva'iou of 

 over eleven thousand feet, the ground is like a sponge and 

 water springs up everywhere. We had to pull through 

 several mire holes more bkc swamps than mountain tops. 

 After descending from the range we passed the famous 

 "Ra'jinsoa Mints, whosj ospnar has since been killed, and 

 then into Kokomo. We did not find Kokomo all we ex- 

 pected, though we made quite a stay. There is no game 

 near by. The fishing had been fished out, though farther 

 down the valley, where West Ten Mile Creek joins its 

 Waters with the 'other, there is a better chance for' success. 

 We heard thai: there were deer over the range, also that thero; 

 ■were two Roeky Mountain lions on Jack Mountain, but they 

 are there still for all we did to disturb th&U'i, We found the 

 altitude too much for us, anl as it snowed about every day 

 (Juue and July), we thought; there might be pleasanter spots. 

 From Kokomo there is a good road into the Mid le Park, 

 and we planned to go over on the Grand River, where there 

 is fine fishing ml plenty of game. A party went down from 

 Kokomo while we we're there and brou'rht back glowing 

 accounts, 



Middle Park is a flue place for the tourist and sportsman, 

 and though there are more direct ways of reaching it from 

 Denver than via Leadville. etc., a person who has lime and 

 wishes to see the country can go that way and out the other, 

 or vice versa, thus seeing a large section of the country 

 and. many interesting p. tints. By following this narrative 

 one can understand the former route, that is via Colorado 

 Springs, South Park, Cottonwood Lakes, Twin Lakes, Lead- 

 ville, Kokomo, and thence to the Park. The latter route 

 not being part of my journeyings, I will mention here, viz. : 

 Denver via Colorado Central R. R. (if by rail) to George- 



town, thence to Hot Springs in the Park, then where fancy 



leads. We had planned visiting Middle Park, but W 



received a telegram calling him to Denver, so we had to 

 change our intentions. Before leaving Kokomo, we had the 

 good or bad fortune, as one pleases, to see a specimen of 

 frontier law. A man was shot by a desperado, and a mob 

 lynched the shooter. It was done quickly and with very 

 little noise, but it was well done; and though I am a law and 

 order man, I think it was a good piece of work for Kokomo, 

 for it had a very quieting effect on the ruffian element of 

 the place. 



On our return to Leadville my two companions left me 

 and returned, one to Denver, the* other to Colorado Springs, 

 leading me once more adrift and open for engagement. It 

 was not long before I fouud an old friend, for while passing 

 up the street I saw an individual sitting on a keg in front of 

 a feed store whom I thought looked familiar as far as face 

 went, but otherwise not. An old pair of canvas pants, slouch 

 hat, high boots and blue shirt made up an ensemble that did 

 not resemble my nobby friend Al. B., whom I had met in 

 Denver in 1876, just from a fancy academy in the East; but 

 it was Al and right, glad he seemed to see me. He had been 

 looking for some "claims" up on the Arkansas, and was 

 going to Cottonwood, thence to Denver, had a mule team, 

 etc. Here was my chance, so it was soon arranged that I 

 was to go with him. Al. had a friend, Charley P.", who had 

 just returned from Ruby City, who was also going with him. 

 We started one lovely Sunday morning from Leadville and 

 made good time considering the roads, but Al. wanted to be 

 easy on the mules, so we camped outside of Buena Vista that 

 night, and drove into town the next morning. How changed 

 since I had passed through the place and over the road only a 

 few weeks before. Where train after train of heavily loaded 

 wagons had moved slowly along, there was silence and soli- 

 tude. The town was quiet and had an air of decay. The 

 saloons, that chief indicator of the prosperity of a Western 

 town, were quiet and deserted. Restaurants and hotels had 

 closed doors and curtained windows; truly the glory of 

 Buena Vista had departed. Only stopping long enough to 

 buy some hay and grain for the mules, we started for Cotton- 

 wood Lake. * 



After getting fairly into the mountains it commenced to 

 rain, as it does about every day at that season of the year, 

 and when we arrived at the lake we found things decidedly 

 wet. However, we managed to cook our supper and to fix 

 a pretty comfortable bed under an old roof, which would 

 keep the rain off partly. The next day was unpleasant, but 

 Charley and I concluded we would try the trout in the lake, 

 so we borrowed a boat and float respectively, and sailed out 

 on the deep. Cottonwood Lake is a beautiful sheet of water, 

 situated in the heart of the mountains, whose high peaks 

 surround it on all sides. It is a very romantic spot, and 

 many parties visit it and camp near its* shores for weeks. It 

 is probably half a mile long, by a quarter or more broad. 

 The water is very cold and' clear, like most mountain 

 lakes, and in some'placcs no bottom has been found. It is 

 filled with trout, and at certain times excellent sport can be 

 had. Besides the fishing, there are any quantity of "moun- 

 tain raspberries" near, and the ladies make that quite a 

 point. On the high peaks near by, there are deer and sheep, 

 but it is a good hunter that gets a shot, except by chance, in 

 the summer season. 



Charley and I pulled across the lake to where a little stream 

 came in and tried our luck, both with fly aud with the 

 festive "hopper," but only succeeded in getting one poor 

 trout. We could see them in the clear water beneath our 

 craft, but they would not rise. It was evidently an off time, 

 for though we stayed three days w r e did notsucceedin getting 

 a good mess. We tried them at all times — when it was clear, 

 when it poured rain, early in the morning and in the evening. 

 One evening in particular, it had rained in the afternoon, 

 and just before sunset it cleared off nicely. The surface 

 of the lake was like glass, and reflected on its mirror-like 

 bosom were the high peaks that surround it. Just as the 

 sun was casting its last rays over the mountain tops, we sailed 

 forth, on mischief bent. But no luck was ours. We did 

 manage to hook two or three fine trout, but that only made 

 the affair more aggravating, as the waters seemed to be alive 

 with them. They would jump up from the water all round 

 us and take in the grasshoppers which lay floating on the sur- 

 face, but disdained to take in ours. There may have been 

 several causes for the trout not biting, but as I am not author- 

 ity on the subject, I will not venture to state more than one 

 cause, and I imagined that was sufficient. The lake was cov- 

 .ered with grasshoppers which had been blown onto the water 

 by the wind, and the trout were completely glutted with 

 food. We gave the fishing up and the next diiy started down 

 for below, It is not always thus, for at times a person can catch 

 all the trout he wishes for at Cottonwood Lake. 



On our way to Buena Vista we visited Cottonwood 

 Springs, which have quite a reputation for their curative 

 qualities. It is a pleasant spot, and there is a good hotel in 

 connection with the springs. We tried a bath at.the springs, 

 but I must confess I did not see anything remarkable about 

 rfie water. It was cleansing, and that seemed to he the ex- 

 tent of its properties. 



On our arrival at Buena Vista, Al. received a letter from 

 his mother, saying that she would meet him there and take 

 a trip across South Park with us. So that night we camped 

 in town, and I slept in one wagon, while the boys climbed 

 into a large freight wagou which stood near us, and, though 

 it rained, managed to survive. Mrs, B — - came in on the 

 evening train, and was all ready to start in the morning. 

 Here was an example of what can be done by a lady in 



camping out, aud a delicate one, too. Mrs. B was from 



the far East, and had come to Colorado first on account of 

 her husband's health. They had waited too long, however, 

 a. id he did not recover. It was his wish that Al. should 

 have a chance to grow strong and healthy; so he impressed 



it upon Mrs. B that she would not delay in his case, but 



go to Colorado and stay until satisfied that her son's health 

 was thoroughly established. They were persons of means, 

 and could well afford to spend *a few years in the West. 



When Mrs. B jomed us she did not. look as if she was 



lit for a week's journey through the mountains in a rough 

 box wagon, as she had not been well and was suffering from 

 neuralgia; however, she had made up her mind it would do 

 her good, aDd it did. 



Leaving Buena Vista we passed over the divide into South 

 Park, from South Park into Summit and. Haydcn's Park. 

 The ride through the parks was charging; and though we 

 were troubled some with the rain, it being the rainy season, 

 we did not suffer. The nights were very cold, as we Were 

 at a high altitude, and our blankets would be white with 

 frost when we would awake in the mornings. Mrs. B. slept 

 in the wagon, while we boys lay on the ground. We had a 

 tent, but did not pitch it. Away from the beaten track 



through the parks a person can find game, but it is not as 

 plenty as in the Middle and North parks, and I would not 

 advise any one to go there for hunting purposes alone, espe- 

 cially in the summer; but for a beautiful trip I commend a 

 ride through the parks mentioned. 



Our route took us through Ute Pass and down through the 

 canon, past; the falls, into Manitou. Here we stopped for a 

 short time and visited the points of interest, and they are 

 many here. Manitou is a lovely spot for those who wish to 

 live more as they do at home, and do not care to rough it. 

 The altitude is not great, the air is fine, and for the invand 

 it is a point much superior to any other I know of in Colo- 

 rado. I of course include Colorado Springs with Manitou, 

 as they are only a short distance apart, The natural springs 

 of iron.-' soda, etc., at Manitou are real; no imagination 

 needed there. 



From Colorado Springs we returned to Denver to prepare 

 for our trip to Estes Park. Prairie Dog. 



Detroit, Mich, 1883. 



PRAIRIE CHICKEN PROSPECTS. 



IN your last issue you ask your Western readers to report 

 the prairie chicken prospects. They never were better 

 in this part of the West, viz., in the South Platte country, 

 Nebraska. It was generally remarked by all our local 

 sportsmen that there were more old chickens last spring than 

 they had seen in many years. The season has been favor- 

 able, and the young ones seem to be coining on first rate. 

 The game laws have been well observed in this vicinity. 

 FAibmont, Nebraska. D. B*. F. 



In your last issue you request "Western readers" to in- 

 form you concerning the "chicken crop," which, I am 

 pleased to say, are doing well. Yesterday in a ride of seven 

 miles, I flushed at least fifteen coveys, and this I consider a 

 large number upon taking into consideration the fact that I 

 was not hunting, and my horse "flushed" them all. Yes, I 

 can candidly say chickens are over-abuudant this season in 

 this section. The law, however, is very bad. Hunters here 

 will not wait until Sept. 1. They willingly submitted to 

 Aug. 15, but when they pushed Sept. 1, 'twas too much. 

 Will guarantee more 'chickens will be brought to bag by 

 local sportsmen within the next month, than between Sept. 

 1 and Jan. 1. Have at this early day well-authenticated 

 accounts of hunters who have been out after half -fledged 

 birds, and returned with from twenty to sixty per gun. Al- 

 though I would hesitate to assure good shooting here after 

 Sept. 1, for the simple reason that the. havoc among them 

 (the chickens) will commence a month early, am positive I 

 could bring to bag within five miles of town one hundred 

 birds— at this writing — a day. Complimenting you upon 

 your success in making the Forest and Stream grow more 

 interesting week after week, I remain, B. A. Mayor. 

 Austin, Minn., July 19. 



OLD EAGLE-HEAD'S SEPULCHRE. 



\ T last after an absence of many months I am back here 

 .xa. on the upper Marias. Here I am in th'e same old room; 

 my guns arc again resting on the familiar hooks of dried 

 deer-legs, and my blankets are spread on the same shaky 

 bedstead as of yore. Still 1 am not happy. My heart is now 

 set on spending the summer iu the Rockies, and as l take 

 my field-glass every day and see the great banks of snow 

 covering them nearly to the base, I grow impatient and won- 

 der if the sun isn't losing its power, for although more than 

 a month has elapsed since I first looked at those awful snow 

 banks, I cannot see that they have diminished at all in size, 

 But the river flowing so swiftly by the door says 1 am mis- 

 taken. Its waters are steadily' risi&g, telling of many an 

 liquified snowdrift gliding down to thosea. "Have patience," 

 it calls out as with a gurgle it sweeps around the sharp cut 

 bank and dashes overthe ford, and with a sigh half of im- 

 patience and half of relief I turn away and busy myself as 

 best I can. 



Yesterday I saddled a steady old Indian horse and rode up 

 the "Dry Fork," which by the way hasn't been dry for the 

 last six years. Took both my guns, strapping the Winches- 

 ter to my saddle aud carrying the fowling-piece in my hands. 

 After going about a mile I heard the unmistakable sound of 

 a rattlesnake and looked around just in time to see a monster 

 oue disappear in its hole. Having nothing belter to do I 

 picketed the horse at a distance and then lay down near the 

 hole and waited for the snake to appear. Ere long he 

 poked his head out and not seeing me, for I was hid behind 

 a bunch of ryegrass, he slowly crawled forth and coiled him- 

 self up for a comfortable doze in the warm sunshine. I 

 rudely disturbed him with a charge of No. C which made 

 him writhe and rattle furiously, blew his head to atoms with 

 the other barrel and started on my way rejoicing. 



This Dry Fork is a great resting place for ducks, and I 

 rode along its banks in hope of bagging a few mallards or 

 teal. I am about to make a confession. I fear 1 cannot 

 class myself as one of the sporting fraternity, ds a "true 

 sportsman," for I am a pot-hunter.' Back at the tort OUT 

 meat larder was empty, and had been so for several days. 

 It was with the mercenary object of filling the empty pot 

 that I started out on this day's hunt, 1 am worse than a 

 pot-hunter. I am a very fiend of destruction! for at this 

 time of yearthe ducks are nesting, and in every female duck 

 I killed 'l of course destroyed a prospective brood of duck- 

 lings, and a "true sportsman" wouldn't do such a thing as 

 that, A hungry stomach is not conducive to philanthropy, 

 I thought, asl bagged a fine drake mallard, and, a little later, 

 its mate, which was nesting under a bunch of willows. Fol- 

 lowing up the creek a mile- or two further, I killed six more 

 mallards and two teal. 



[Ip here, near the bank of the river, .stands a single isolated 

 cottonwood tree, and in if, resting on a rude scaffold, sleeps 

 a long silent member of the Blackfoot Nation. 'Twas long 

 ago on a summer's day (so I am told) that old Eagle-head 

 died, and here ere the sun set his wives and female relatives 

 brought, him to sleep his last sleep. From his aerial sepul- 

 chre his soul could look out over the pleasant valley, oyer 

 the broad prairies and at the dim, distant mountains. On 

 warm summer days the buffalo and antelope wouU come to 

 drink of the clear water running past the loots of the tree. 

 In the still, calm night, the lawn, with its mother, would 

 gambol on the green sward below. Over there, on the point 

 of the lull, the wolves would sit and howl as in days of yore. 

 Ah! how pleasant to be buried in the midst of familiar 

 scenes. No cold weight of earth and metal imprisons old 

 Eagle-head. Here he sleeps in sight of the scenes of his 

 vouth, and here he shall sleep until, with the coming years, 

 the tree decays and falls to the grouud and his dust is Jost in 

 the earth. 



Although it is ten or twelve years since the old man died. 



