1824-33 ARRIVAL IN PARIS 53 



perity — few people to be seen on the road, still 

 fewer houses, and these but poor mud cottages ; 

 no private travelling, no carriages, but now and 

 then a solitary estafette. What an outrd thing 

 is a diligence ! Two coaches and a chariot joined 

 by symphysis or harmonia, sometimes five, some- 

 times six or seven horses, ropes every now and 

 then breaking ; the postillion always picturesque. 

 Nevertheless, I never slept more comfortably in 

 a coach than in the coupd ; and while travelling 

 in a strange country should always prefer making 

 my observations at a rate not quicker than five or 

 six miles an hour. 



' It was nearly eight when we reached Paris 

 on Friday night (29th). We met numerous groups 

 of the Garde Nationale Rurale returning from 

 the grand review. On alighting we were told of 

 the illumination and fireworks about to take place, 

 so I determined to stay that night at the Hotel 

 des Messageries, and, after having got my luggage 

 into my apartment and some refreshment into 

 myself, I posted off to the Place Louis XV., which 

 I was told would be the best place for seeing 

 them. Imagine me following my nose and such 

 directions as I could comprehend, hustled about 

 in the crowd, every minute in danger of being 

 run over, and then on a sudden turn finding 

 myself in the most beautiful place in the world, 

 among noble walks, statues, flowers, fountains, 

 glassy pools — in short, in the garden of the 



