234 PRACTICAL TAXIDERMY. 



Upon this is screwed anotlier piece an inch or more thick 

 (Fig. 40), so as to make a step (C C). Both pieces must be dry, 

 so as not to be liable to warp ; upon the higher part are screwed 

 two strips of hard wood (B B) about l^in. or 2in. wide, forming 

 a right angle where they meet. The whole must be very 

 accurately made, and although deal will answer the purpose, 

 hard wood of some kind will be more satisfactory. Beech 

 or oak will do very well. 



Suppose a piece of moulding to require mitring ; it has only 

 to be laid as shown against the guide bar (B), and sawn off on 

 the line (CO), or laid on the other side against the second guide 

 bar, and similarly cut off. It will be necessary to use both sides 

 in this way, because, although the piece cut off has also an angle 



Fig. 40, — Mitre Block. 



of 45deg., it would need to be turned over and applied to the 

 other, which could not be done without reversing the moulding. 

 In a plain unmoulded strip this, of course, would not signify. 



Gilt moulding may be put at each end or not, according to the 

 fancy and pocket of the workman. The case is now finished, 

 and shows the front and two sides of glass framed in by gilt, 

 outside of which is the narrow black line of the wood. If it be 

 desired to get up the wood of the case in a superior manner, it 

 must first be blacked with the glue and lamp-black, sand-papered 

 down, blacked and sand-papered again, and finally French 

 polished. 



The most substantial and effective case is the " stop-cham- 

 fered" one, made either in deal ebonized, or fancy woods 



