PROPAGATION. 



233 



is oblique to the direction of the fibre, and is, of 

 course, larger than if it had been made right across 

 the shoot, consequently it presents a larger area 

 of root-forming wood. 



Cuttings of some plants strike more readily 

 when, after having been cut across, they are 

 split upwards about half an inch, more or less, 

 according to the size of the cutting. The shoot 

 should be cut with a very sharp knife imme- 

 diately below the joint. Some of the lower 

 leaves should be cut or clipped off very little 

 farther from the base than the length to which 

 the cutting is inserted in the ground. The older 

 leaves elaborate more sap for the formation 

 of roots than the very young ones; and, from 

 being near the moist surface, they absorb mois- 

 ture, or at least they do not evaporate so much 

 as when they are elevated from that source of 

 moisture. The petioles of the leaves to be 

 removed should be cut off as close to the stem 

 as can be done without injuring the bark. 



Generally it is not convenient to leave foliage 

 on that portion of the cutting to be buried in 

 soil, as the work of planting would be rendered 

 thereby much more difficult, and it would be 

 impossible to accomplish it without breaking 

 the leaves or their stalks in the process. Leaves 

 of large size — for example, those of Ficus elastica 

 and Cyanophyllum — are considerably reduced 

 on the cuttings. The leaves of all cuttings should 

 be washed clean before planting. Some plants, 

 such as Boronia, Epacris, Cytisus, and Acacia, 

 yield the most likely cuttings after they have 

 stood for a few weeks in a higher temperature 

 than they naturally require. 



The materials in which cuttings are struck are 

 various; but silver-sand, white and pure, is that 

 which is most in use, and on the whole found to 

 answer best. It is free from decaying matter, 

 and therefore does not induce putrefaction. It 

 is porous, and affords a ready passage for the 

 young roots, yet, being fine, it retains moisture 

 by capillary attraction. It contains very little 

 nourishment, but scarcely any besides what may 

 be dissolved in the water is required till rootlets 

 begin to be formed. The sand, as already men- 

 tioned, should be pure and free from the oxides 

 of iron. For very delicate things it should be 

 well washed before it is used. Except for com- 

 paratively few plants, a portion of soil should be 

 mixed with the sand. That kind of soil in which 

 the plant itself thrives is suitable for the cuttings, 

 but it must be finely sifted. Easily-rooted cut- 

 tings, such as Fuchsias, Pelargoniums, Dahlias, 

 and Chrysanthemums, will do in a mixture of 

 five parts of soil to one of sand. Hard-wooded 



Heaths, Epacris and such like fine-rooted plants, 

 require three parts of sand to one of fine peat. 

 Sand is more expensive than soil, and therefore 

 no more of it need be used than is necessary. 

 Many plants, such as Laurels, some kinds of 

 Roses, Chrysanthemums, &c, will strike in 

 common garden soil. Various other substances, 

 as powdered charcoal, brick-dust, burned clay, 

 chopped moss, and water, have been employed. 



Many plants will strike and grow in chopped 

 sphagnum moss, and if they are to be grown 

 for some time in the pots in which they are 

 struck, some leaf-mould or peat, mixed with 

 the moss, will be advantageous. 



Cuttings of many plants will readily strike 

 root if their ends are put in water, provided it 

 be of the proper temperature. Bottles, saucers, 

 or jars may be employed to hold the water ; but 

 as light is not necessary for the production of 

 roots, which are usually and best formed in the 

 dark, the vessel, if transparent, should be shaded. 

 Roots grown in water are disposed to subdivide 

 exceedingly, so that many are as fine as hairs, 

 and when taken out of the water are too delicate 

 to act well in the soil. It is therefore advisable 

 to remove the cuttings struck in water at an 

 early stage of the growth of the roots, before 

 their length becomes too much out of proportion 

 to their thickness. It should be observed that 

 the soil in which plants struck in water are 

 planted ought to be fine, and kept moist; and 

 the plants should be carefully shaded till they 

 strike fresh root. Large cuttings of Yucca, Dra- 

 caena, Pandanus, Dieffenbachia, Oleander, &c, 

 may be conveniently rooted in this manner. 



The preparation of an ordinary cutting pot 

 may here fittingly be given. The pot should 

 be clean. Fill up two-thirds of it with clean 

 potsherds. Over this place a layer of rough 

 material such as soil siftings or sphagnum moss. 

 Then put in the compost, loosely if for soft- 

 wooded or herbaceous plants, firmly if for hard- 

 wooded. Over this put a thin layer of silver 

 sand. If the cuttings are small, water the whole 

 well before planting them, and again after they 

 are planted; but if large, do not water till after 

 planting. Be careful to push the cutting to the 

 bottom of the hole made by the dibber. Do 

 not allow the cuttings to flag at any time if 

 preventible. These directions, if modified, will 

 apply to pans, boxes, hand-lights, and frames 

 intended for cuttings. 



Insertion. — Cuttings of hardy plants that strike 

 in the open air are sometimes inserted by means 

 of a dibber; but it is always better, when cir- 

 cumstances will permit, to cut off, by a line, a 



