250 



THE GARDENER'S ASSISTANT. 



distinct processes, viz. the preparation of the 

 ball and the lifting and transporting of it to 

 the new quarters. Balls of soil weighing 1 ton 

 or less are best made circular, so that they can 

 be bound up with stout canvas and cords. 

 Between the cords and the canvas a few thin 

 narrow boards are necessary to prevent the 

 cords cutting into the soil. They may be 





Fig. 318— Method of using Tourniquet. 



tightened by making a loop at one end, and 

 whilst one man is pulling at the cord another 

 may be tapping the boards close in to the ball. 

 It can be made firmer and safer by tightening 

 the cords by means of a tourniquet (figs. 317 

 and 318). As affording some indication of the 

 weight of a ball of earth, it may be mentioned 

 that a cubic yard of soil averages roughly about 

 1 ton. When the tree is so large that a mass 

 of soil 5, 6, or 7 feet in diameter has to be 

 moved, the ball is best made square, as it will 

 be necessary to roughly enclose it with boards. 

 Large transplanting machines (see figs. 319 

 and 320) are only really needed in large gardens, 

 or where extensive alterations necessitate the 

 removal of a large number of trees. Much can 

 be done with a few planks, rollers, and other 

 implements common to the garden by Avorkmen 

 of intelligence and average ingenuity. We are, 

 indeed reduced to such simple accessories when 

 large shrubs like Rhododendrons have to be 

 moved. The large spreading tops prevent the 

 employment of any of the machines in common 



use. The removal of very large trees and 

 shrubs is, however, somewhat out of the 

 ordinary routine of garden work. The vast 

 majority of trees and shrubs are taken out of 

 the ground and carried to their new quarters 

 with no more soil than clings naturally to the 

 roots, and it is to the best way of treating such 

 plants that a few words may now be devoted. 

 We have already referred to the importance of 

 preserving as much as is possible the fibrous 

 portions of the root-system. Some plants can, 

 of course, be removed safely if most, or even 

 all, of these fine roots are cut off, but they are 

 exceptions, and even they would be better with 

 the fibres left on. When large specimens have 

 to be removed, if no apparatus is available to 

 enable them to be transported with a ball of 

 earth, the best way is to dig a trench round 

 the tree at a suitable distance and gradually 

 and carefully break away the soil inwards to 

 the trunk. As the roots are bared they should 

 be carefully preserved from injury by tying 

 loosely in bundles. If the process is a long 

 one, the exposed roots ought to be prevented 

 from becoming dry by covering them with a 

 damp mat or something of the kind. All 

 severed or badly bruised roots ought to be 

 cleanly cut with a knife. 



Whilst the hole into which the plant has to 

 be placed will naturally be proportionate to 

 its size, it should be remembered that the 

 larger it is the better. A transplanted tree 

 will always thrive better in ground that has 

 been thoroughly broken up. Ground that is 

 to be occupied by new shrubberies or closely- 

 planted groups should always be deeply trenched 

 beforehand. Even in soil that has been so 

 treated the holes should always be large 

 enough to allow of all the roots being laid 

 out their full length and in their natural 

 positions. Any doubling back of the roots 

 k very objectionable. The hole should be no 

 deeper than will allow of the uppermost part 

 of the roots being covered about 2 inches. Too 

 deep planting is especially to be avoided on 

 heavy land. After a plant has been stood in 

 its place, its roots should be first covered with 

 soil fine enough to be worked into all the in- 

 terstices between the fibres. The plant, if 

 small enough, may also be shaken slightly to 

 further this end. The amount of treading or 

 ramming necessary depends on the nature of 

 the soil. If light and sandy, it needs more 

 ramming than wet heavy soil, which is apt to 

 set hard. Nothing is better for settling the 

 soil about the roots than a good watering. 



