278 



THE GARDENER'S ASSISTANT. 



whatever it may be, be uniform, not alone that 

 of the surface when finished, but the subsoil 

 surface, to the point where the spade or pick 

 has gone, should be as even as possible, so as to 

 give the whole body of loosened earth an equal 

 depth over the entire area; this, and no other 

 method of procedure, will ensure a perfectly 

 plane surface. If the loosened earth is deeper 

 in one place than another, the subsidences will 

 be unequal and the surface will become uneven 

 — a condition which, so long as it exists, will 

 spoil the appearance of a lawn. Besides, it is 

 much more difficult to remedy defects of this 

 nature afterwards, than it is to do the work 

 properly at the first. Lawns which are uneven 

 are much more expensive in the keeping than 

 smooth and even ones, and not only this, but the 

 colour of the grass is not uniform. The reason 

 for this difference in tint is due to the elevated 

 portions being shaven to the quick, whilst the 

 grass in the hollows is left comparatively long; j 

 the former presenting a pale hue for several I 

 days after mowing, the latter a bright-green 

 one, giving the lawn a spotty aspect. 



When the trenching is completed, the surface 

 should be gone over with the spade and rake, 

 leaving it quite level and smooth, in which 

 condition it should remain for a considerable 

 length of time to allow it to settle. If the work 

 is completed in the autumn, the rains of the 

 winter months will solidify it, and bring it into 

 proper condition for being turfed or sown, 

 whichever is preferred. 



If good turf, perfectly free from weeds, or 

 daisies, or coarse grasses can be procured, a good 

 lawn can be obtained without delay, but it 

 should be laid and rolled a few weeks before 

 the dry season comes on, to allow the turf to 

 get root-hold, otherwise a season will be lost, 

 and the appearance of the lawn that season will 

 be spoiled. The turves should be uniformly 

 cut and rolled up; this is done near London in 

 yard lengths, 1 foot broad, and about 1J inch 

 thick; and in other parts in squares of 1 foot. 

 Thev should be laid as soon after cutting as ' 

 possible and evenly beaten down with the turf- 

 beater, going over it again thoroughly when 

 the whole of the turf is laid. Pass a heavy 

 roller over the new turf as soon as the beating 

 is completed, and after doing that do not touch 

 it until growth has made some progress and 

 the roots have penetrated the soil. 



Where really good turf cannot be obtained, 

 it will be necessarv to have recourse to sowing 

 seeds, the best season for sowing being the 

 period of two or three weeks about the end of 



March and beginning of April, or early in 

 September, the showery weather we generally 

 experience at those times being favourable for 

 the germination of the seeds. The ground 

 should be prepared for sowing in the same way 

 as was advised where turf was to be laid; it 

 must be made solid by treading and rolling, 

 and reduced by working and raking to a per- 

 fectly level and smooth surface. Whenever 

 possible, the margins of the walks and flower- 

 beds should be laid with a continuous belt of 

 turf, if it be but half a foot in width; this 

 should overlap the true edge, so as to allow of 

 a new edge being cut when the proper time 

 comes, that is, when the turf has begun to grow. 

 This strip should be laid as true and evenly, 

 and be as well beaten and rolled, as is advised 

 for an entire lawn. When turf for this purpose 

 is not available, the margins should be made up 

 with retentive loam, and wide enough to allow 

 of an inch being cut off. When the ground is 

 in proper order, and there is no strong wind 

 blowing, sow the seed and work it in with a 

 wooden rake. Some gardeners have pieces of 

 board 2 to 3 feet long and 1 foot wide fastened 

 to their boots when sowing, so as to avoid foot- 

 prints. To finish the job, give the ground a 

 light rolling. In some places birds are very 

 troublesome on newly-sown lawns, devouring 

 the seeds in large quantities if not scared off; 

 this is a matter that requires attention, or the 

 crop may be too thin, and this will entail re- 

 sowing, and that at a season when the weather 

 is too dry for seed germination. 



The grasses best adapted to form a lawn em- 

 bracing the desirable qualities of fineness of leaf, 

 beautiful delicate green colour, and slow dwarf 

 growth, to obviate frequent mowing, are : — 



Cynosurus cristatus (Crested Dogstail), 50 lbs. 



Festuca ovina tenuifolia (Sheep's Fescue), ... 25 „ 

 Poa nemoralis (Wood Meadow Grass), 25 „ 



100 „ 



Clover is not recommended, as the best lawns 

 are composed exclusively of grasses, but if it is 

 desired, a very small quantity of white Clover 

 may be added. When the lawn is much shaded 

 hy trees, the quantity of Poa nemoralis should 

 be proportionately increased. 



Thick sowing is necessary for the production 

 of a fine close turf; 80 lbs. per statute acre is 

 a suitable quantity. March or April or during 

 September are, as already stated, the best times 

 to sow the seeds, but they may be sown in May, 

 June, and July, if the weather be not too hot 

 and dry. 



