POPULAR GARDEN PLANTS. 



451 



Offsets from the old bulbs may be planted in 

 beds of rich soil in the autumn. The general 

 method of propagation, however, is by means of 

 the small bulblets formed at the base of the 

 cross-cut bulbs (fig. 557). They form in the 



Fig. 557.— Hyacinth Bulb with Offsets. 



incisions, often profusely, and are removed and 

 planted in beds, where they make some growth 

 the first year and form nice little bulbs. The 

 best bulbs require four years' growth, but many 

 are sold as best when only three years old. 



Culture in Beds. — The Hyacinth is planted in 

 almost every garden, public or private, for spring 

 effects. It requires a light rich soil of moderate 

 depth, with an annual dressing of decayed 

 manure. If the soil is heavy, sand spread on 

 the surface and dug in is of much value. Where 

 leaf-mould can be obtained it is excellent to mix 

 with the sand. The soil should be well worked 

 and in good condition before planting in October. 

 The bulbs should be set about 4 inches in depth, 

 with a little clean sand under and over them. 

 If planted well and in good soil, and allowed 

 to ripen naturally before they are taken out of 

 the ground, afterwards drying them in an airy 

 shed, not in the sun, they may be used again 

 the following year. Remove all offsets as soon 

 as the bulbs are dry, and plant them in a bed, 

 the large flowering bulbs only being kept to 

 plant again for flowering. A few of the larger 

 offsets may produce a flower- spike, but they 

 cannot be depended upon. 



Culture in Pots. — Hyacinths are easily culti- 

 vated in pots to the highest standard of excel- 

 lence. It is important to obtain the very best 

 bulbs for this purpose. To ensure a succession 

 of bloom a few dozens of the earliest varieties 

 should be potted about the middle of September 

 in 5-inch pots, putting in the main batch a 

 month later. November is too late for good 

 blooms. The soil, which should be prepared 



in August, should be rich ; good loam two parts,, 

 manure one part, leaf-mould one part, and sand 

 one part, well mixed, and left in a heap in the 

 open air until it is used. The best manure is 

 equal parts of cow-manure and horse-droppings 

 mixed in a heap until fermentation takes place, 

 turning it frequently to prevent over-heating. 

 In a month it will be ready for use. Drain the 

 pots with three or four crocks. A little sand 

 should be placed under each bulb and the 

 compost pressed in firmly, leaving the crown 

 of the bulbs about level with the surface, 

 finally covering the crowns with sand. The 

 pots may then be placed on a hard bottom of 

 ashes, and covered with cocoa-nut fibre, decayed 

 tan, or leaf -mould. Coal-ashes are sometimes 

 used, but the other materials are preferable. 

 The layer above the top of the pots ought to 

 be about 4 inches deep. Those intended to 

 flower early should be taken out of the plunging 

 material as soon as the roots have reached 

 the side of the pot, inverting a small pot over 

 the crown for a few days until the crown has 

 become green. The bulbs not intended for 

 forcing need not be disturbed until early in 

 January, when they may be placed in a frame, 

 kept close for a few days, and shaded with mats 

 until the leaves lose their blanched appearance. 

 They must be protected from frost whilst in the 

 frame. 



Hyacinths do not require large supplies of 

 water, notwithstanding that they will grow and 

 flower well with their roots permanently in 

 water. About once in a week at first is often 

 enough, and even when in full growth two or 

 three times a week are usually sufficient. Weak 

 liquid manure may be given weekly during active 

 growth. The plants should always be placed 

 near the roof-glass to prevent the leaves and 

 spikes from being drawn and weakly. In forc- 

 ing avoid a high temperature; 55° to 60° is high 

 enough in winter. As soon as the flowers at 

 the base of the spikes begin to open, remove 

 them to the cool house or frame to develop 

 fully. The spikes will require support. The 

 neatest is of stoutish wire bent at the end and 

 inserted in the soil without injuring the bulb; 

 if neatly affixed the support is quite hidden 

 by the leaves and flowers. "When the flowers 

 fade they should be cut off, and the bulbs placed 

 out-of-doors or in a frame to ripen. 



Culture in Glasses. — Hyacinths grown in glasses 

 are very ornamental in drawing-rooms, and their 

 treatment is exceedingly simple. Firm well- 

 ripened bulbs should be chosen, and the glasses 

 having been filled with rain-water the bulbs 



