504 



THE GARDENER'S ASSISTANT. 



pots of earth or sand where they will be out 

 of the way of mice, which would soon destroy 

 them. Early in March the seeds should be 

 rubbed out of the hips, sown in pans or shallow 

 boxes filled with loam and leaf-mould, placed 

 in a cold frame, and kept moist. Some will 

 germinate in the course of the spring, summer, 

 or autumn following, others not until the suc- 

 ceeding year. When strong enough they 

 should be drawn, their tap-roots shortened, 

 and replanted from 6 inches to 1 foot apart, 

 according to size. They must be protected 

 from severe frosts. When the plants come 

 into bloom, the most promising should be 

 selected for further trial, until a correct opinion 

 as to their merits can be formed. 



Cuttings of partly -matured growth may be 

 struck at any time, but the most favourable 

 time is about the end of September. A border 

 of light soil on the north side of a hedge or 

 wall should be devoted to them, and the cut- 

 tings be made G to 9 inches in length. The 

 Bourbon, China, and Tea-scented sections re- 

 quire different treatment. In autumn, before 

 the fall of the leaf, cuttings 4 inches long 

 should be inserted round the edges of 4-inch 

 pots filled with a mixture of turfy loam, leaf- 

 mould, and silver sand, and if placed in a frame 

 they will be rooted by the following spring. 

 Where bottom heat is employed, the cuttings 

 may consist of only a single joint of well- 

 ripened young wood. 



Roses may also be propagated from eyes by 

 selecting buds of matured growth. This is an 

 excellent plan for plants grown under glass. 

 The cuts (fig. G13) explain themselves; all that 

 is necessary being a gentle bottom heat and a 

 close case for a few weeks. 



Budding. — The Roses usually employed as 

 stocks are the Celina, Boursault, Manetti, La 

 Grifferaie, and the Dog Rose (Rosa canina). 

 The Dog Rose or Brier is in general the best. 

 Well-ripened suckers, and plants two or three 

 years old, free from side branches, are to be 

 preferred ; and their roots having been trimmed, 

 the tops shortened to from 6 inches to 4 feet, 

 according to the height at which they are to be 

 budded, and side branches removed, they may 

 be planted in nursery rows. When the buds 

 begin to push in spring, the whole of them 

 should be rubbed off, with the exception of two 

 or three situated nearest the height desired for 

 the future plant. Brier stocks raised from 

 seed are much used for Dwarf Roses. They 

 are best for Teas, Noisettes, a few of the 

 Hybrid Perpetuals, and the Hybrid Teas. 



Roses upon this stock produce blooms of clear 

 colour, and continue to flower for a long 

 season. 



The Celina stock is a good one for Bourbons 

 and Noisettes, and may be readily propagated 

 by cuttings. 



The Manetti is an excellent stock for the 

 free-growing Hybrid Perpetuals, Bourbons, and 

 Chinese Roses. It is readily propagated from 

 cuttings of mature shoots inserted early in 

 October or November, according to season. 

 Much the best plan is to cut them into lengths 

 of 9 inches, carefully taking out all the eyes 

 below the two at top, to prevent the after- 

 growth of suckers. For light soils it is espe- 

 cially suited, also for pot plants, with the 

 exception of delicate Teas and Noisettes. 

 When planting stocks for dwarf Roses, it is 

 very necessary to keep the crown of their roots 



Fig. 613.— (a) Bud selected for propagation. 



Mode of planting the Bud. 



near the surface. This allows of the Rosebud 

 being inserted close above the roots, thereby 

 avoiding suckers. 



Budding has already been fully described in 

 the chapter on Propagation (pp. 242-245), so 

 that a few words in addition to those already 

 given should make the process clear. 



Selecting the bud is important. If we are 

 dealing with climbers, it is better to take buds 

 from a strong and healthy shoot. Many of the 

 climbing sorts, such as Devoniensis, soon de- 

 teriorate if buds are not selected from strong 

 growth. The bud should also be in the best 

 possible condition, and as nearly as can be in 

 the same stage of growth as the stock. The 

 illustration (fig. 614) shows a suitable shoot. 

 The bud marked a is too forward, and should 



