OECHIDS. 



561 



Shading. — The necessity of sunlight for Or- 

 chids generally will be understood if we bear 

 in mind that many of them when wild are in 

 close proximity to the equator, where on clear 

 days the sun shines perpendicularly over them, 

 or at a very slight angle, while under cultivation 

 the sunlight comes to them at a much greater 

 angle, so that we are not able to give them 

 much more than one-half as much light here, 

 taking the year round, as they would get at 

 home. But the difference between the condi- 

 tions in the open air and under glass is con- 

 siderable. In every case a bright, clear light, 

 toned to prevent sun-burn, is essential to the 

 healthy growth and flowering of most of these 

 plants. 



Plants which grow at a high altitude " in the 

 full blaze of the sun" require to be carefully 

 shielded from bright sunshine under cultivation 



Fig. 684.— Walters' Shading for Orchid Houses. 



here. A plant growing wild in its native home 

 and in the free air is very differently situated 

 from one cultivated under glass, and, unfortu- 

 nately, in many cases under glass of very bad 

 quality. It should therefore be understood that 

 every house set apart for Orchid culture will 

 require to be shaded for a portion of the year. 

 Some cultivators use a stipple laid on the glass 

 with a brush, or even syringed on, but it is not 

 a good plan, as it is there in dull weather, when 

 all the light possible is an advantage. It is 

 also apt to be washed off in rainy weather, and 

 when bright sunlight follows, the plants are 

 in danger of being scorched worse than if no 

 shading had been used. Such shading can 

 be used for the ends and parts of the roof of 

 the house where the canvas shading does not 

 meet. The roof -shading should be of canvas 

 blinds on rollers. The Odontoglossum or cool 

 vol I. 



house, and the East Indian house, require 

 thicker blinds than the Cattleya or intermediate 

 house, whilst the Mexican Lselias, Barkerias, 

 Dendrobiums, &c, only require the very lightest 

 and gauze-like shade. Walters' wood-lath blinds 

 (fig. 684) are the very best form of shading for 

 orchids, as they admit direct sunlight in such a 

 way as to benefit the plants without scorching 

 them. The blinds should run on supports 4 

 to 6 inches above the glass, to admit of a cur- 

 rent passing under them. The blinds should 

 be down only when required to protect the 

 plants from the sun's rays, and drawn up 

 during spells of dull weather. The sole object 

 of shading is to protect the plants from exces- 

 sive sunshine, but to exclude as little light as 

 possible. 



Fresh Imported Orchids. — In forming a collec- 

 tion of Orchids, newly-imported plants, or those 

 which have been what is called 

 "semi-established", are as a rule 

 the best. Preference should be 

 given to the fresh arrivals, which 

 almost invariably start into 

 growth more vigorously than 

 plants which have already under- 

 gone a course of artificial treat- 

 ment, and which often suffer 

 through being passed from one 

 system of management to an- 

 other. Spring is the best time 

 to get imported Orchids, but 

 any other season need not be 

 objected to, provided the plants 

 have escaped frost and are in 

 the proper condition on arrival. 

 Generally the plants on arrival 

 are at rest, and more or less emaciated by 

 their long journey. They therefore require 

 a course of treatment that will make them 

 plump again. It is, however, useless to supply 

 them with soil until they start into active 

 growth by pushing out new roots. Orchids 

 with pseudo- bulbs, such as Odontoglossums, 

 should be carefully looked over on their arrival, 

 removing all dead portions, or any insect pests 

 which may come over with them. Each plant 

 should then be placed in a small pot filled with 

 clean crocks so placed as to hold the plant 

 steady, using a stick also if necessary, and placed 

 in a cool or temperate house of that degree of 

 humidity which will ensure the plant's being- 

 supplied with sweet, moist air. After three 

 days the crocks which support the plants in 

 the pots may be watered daily, as the moisture 

 passes quickly away. In time the plants will 



36 



