566 



THE GARDENER'S ASSISTANT. 



under cultivation. For example, many of the 

 Indian Dendrobes, whilst at rest, are so dried 

 up by the heat that they are scarcely recogniz- 

 able as plants at all, and would undoubtedly 

 perish but for the cooler nights. The hot dry 

 season, when growth is impossible, holds the 

 plant in check until the cooler, moist, growing 

 season arrives, followed by a temperate period, 

 when the flowers expand, and thus the year is 

 made up. Were we to subject these plants to 

 the heat and other conditions they get in their 

 own country, death would soon result. We see, 

 however, that a period of inactivity is a necessary 

 factor in the life of the plant, and as this can be 

 given just as well with a low temperature and 

 drought, the end is the same. Success in every 

 operation connected with Orchid culture depends 

 on a proper observance of the seasons, so that 

 while a full year's work is demanded, no more 

 shall be attempted. Many spindly winter 

 growths and poor premature flowers are the 

 result of neglecting this question of rest. 



Watering. — Orchids should be looked over 

 every morning, and those which require it 

 watered with rain-water where possible, and 

 with a liberal hand. In the heat of summer, 

 the first thing in the morning is the best time, 

 and at that season it is also well to look over 

 them again in the evening. In winter and in 

 cold weather it is better to wait until eight or 

 nine o'clock in the morning before watering. 

 At that season, of course, comparatively little 

 water will be needed. The condition of the 

 growth of the plant should be the test as to the 

 quantity of water given. Where growing and 

 resting plants are kept in the same house, it is 

 safer to place each class together. If a plant is 

 really actively grown" ng, it requires a thorough 

 soaking, and then to be allowed to remain, even 

 if it be a day or two, until it is, although still 

 moist, beginning to get dry again, when the 

 thorough watering should be repeated. If at 

 rest, the plant either wants no water, or but 

 little at intervals of two or three days. 



Orchids in baskets or pans suspended near 

 the roof -glass generally grow satisfactorily. 

 Baskets made of wire and various w^oods have 

 been used, but none have proved so good as those 

 of teak-w r ood, which can now be purchased at 

 a far less cost than it would take to make 

 them. They are supplied with copper -wire 

 suspenders, which are by far the best, as of 

 all kinds of wire copper is the least harmful. 

 Galvanized iron-ware should not be used. 



Cleanliness, both in the plants themselves, 

 the stages, and woodwork of the house gener- 



ally must be insisted on if success is to be 

 assured. 



The arrangement of the plants in the house 

 is a matter of some importance. It should be 

 borne in mind that the smaller and more delicate 

 in construction the Orchids are, the nearer the 

 roof -glass should they be. Whilst it may not be 

 possible to suspend all such plants, some of them 

 may be elevated on a special stage raised above 

 the rest. Generally the plants should be one 



Fig. 686.— Epiphronitis Veitchii. 



foot from the roof -glass; if nearer, there is a 

 risk of damage during severe frost. A plant 

 may do better in one position than another in 

 the same house; this may be due to the direc- 

 tion of air-currents, shade, moisture, &c. ; at 

 any rate, it often pays to move plants to 

 another position if they do not look happy. 



Propagating Orchids. — In most cases Orchids 

 are propagated by division. All those with 

 pseudo-bulbs springing from rhizomes or woody 

 connecting stems, like Cattleya and Lselia, grow 

 onward, the back bulbs having dormant eyes at 

 the base. At the distance of two or three bulbs 

 from the leading growth these rhizomes may at 

 any time be cut half through, in order to induce 

 what is termed a back break, and w r hen such 



