568 



THE GAKDENEK'S ASSISTANT. 



to more than it is, consists in cutting away all 

 small, old, worn-out pseudo-bulbs, which so 

 often disfigure Dendrobiums, Cattleyas, Laelias, 

 Epidendrums, &c, and which are not only use- 

 less and unsightly, but they interfere with the 

 new growths, if not by depriving them of 

 nourishment, at any rate by the obstruction of 

 light and air. 



All yellow or badly-spotted foliage should be 

 removed from growing plants, on the principle 

 that decay is often the result of disease, which 

 may be propagated if the leaves are left on the 

 plants. Masdevallias and such-like plants often 

 bear twice as many leaves as they ought to, and 

 the least sign of unsightliness on one ought to 

 be the signal for its removal, the leaf being cut 

 a quarter of an inch above the joint to which it | 

 would naturally die back. 



Basket Orchids. — Some Orchids require to be 

 grown in baskets, because their flower spikes 

 grow downwards, which in pots would be spoilt. 

 Stanhopea, Coryanthes, Acineta, Luddemannia, 

 Gongora, and Cirrhsea are genera with this 

 habit. There are also many Orchids which 

 display their flowers to greatest advantage 

 when grown in baskets suspended from the 

 roof. Among these are Codogyne Massangeana, 

 C. tomentosa, C. Dayana, and others; Den- 

 drobium Falconed, I). Wardianum, D. crassinode, 

 and many others; Saccolabiums of the Rhyn- 

 costylis section, and indeed most of the Orchids 

 which have long graceful racemose flower-spikes. 

 The objection to baskets is, that after thriving 

 for a time, and rooting all over the wood, it 

 either decays, or the plant needs a larger one, 

 and a serious check is the consequence of its 

 removal. 



Top-dressing is necessary for Orchids grown 

 in baskets, when all movable worn-out stuff 

 should be taken away and replaced with new. 

 Where it can be used, the syringe is helpful, as 

 with its aid all loose material is washed out, and 

 the roots and basket more or less cleaned with- 

 out any danger of bruising. 



Manure for Orchids. — On the whole it will 

 be better for the Orchid-grower to steadily set 

 his face against the use of manures in any form 

 for epiphytal Orchids, and to carry it out on 

 a very small scale, and in a very cautious man- 

 ner, for the terrestrial species. Chemical man- 

 ures should not be used. Weak liquid cow- 

 manure may be given to Calanthes, Phaius, 

 Peristerias, Zygopetalums, Lycastes, and other 

 very strong-growing terrestrials, although some 

 of the best plants ever seen in the country 

 have been grown without its aid. A sprink- 



ling of good guano under the stages in the 

 evening occasionally, and especially in spring, 

 or pouring weak liquid manure late in the day 

 on the stages and under them, assists materially 

 in giving healthy foliage and in keeping down 

 insect pests. 



Insects. — Orchids are liable to be attacked by 

 aphides, especially in the spring, and by thrips, 

 of which the minute yellow species is the worst, 

 at all seasons. These are got rid of and kept 

 down by dipping or Abashing or spraying with 

 some insecticide, or by fumigation. Scale and 

 bug of different kinds require careful removal by 

 means of brush — a soft tooth-brush is best — and 

 sponge. Cockroaches should be kept down by 

 placing beetle-poison about the houses, and by 

 hunting for them at night. Wood-lice must 

 also be trapped. The Orchid-fly (Isosoma Or- 

 chidearum), which deposits its eggs in the young 

 growths of Cattleyas, Lselias, &c, is also most 

 destructive if it once gets established. In the 

 course of time the grubs are hatched out, the 

 young growths of the plants present a swollen 

 appearance, and are injured beyond repair. 

 Sometimes the roots are attacked in the same 

 way by this or other of the insects, including 

 borer-beetles, which have been imported with 

 Orchids of late years. The only way to deal 

 with them is to ruthlessly cut off and burn 

 every affected young growth or root, even if it 

 be at a heavy cost. The insect in its perfect 

 form should be looked for morning and evening; 

 it resembles a small, black, winged ant. By 

 perseverance the pest is to be got rid of before 

 much damage is done; the plants which have 

 had their swollen growths cut off usually break 

 well from other eyes. 



Fumigation, when necessary, should be done 

 lightly on three successive evenings, either with 

 pure tobacco leaf or "XL All", which is safe, 

 and usually destructive to thrips. Generally it 

 is better to fumigate lightly once a week or so, 

 to keep the insects from gaining a hold. The 

 dipping-tub should be always on hand at potting 

 time, so that all the operations necessary for 

 each plant can be done at the same time. 

 Most gardeners have a favourite dip for killing 

 thrips; weak tobacco water and an infusion of 

 Quassia chips are often effective, and are harm- 

 less to the plants even if the liquid runs down 

 to the roots. Paraffin as an insecticide is too 

 strong for Orchids. 



Cut Flowers. — Orchid blooms are showy, and 

 in some cases, when cut, they last an extra- 

 ordinary time, often running into months if 

 carefully tended; the plants are greatly bene- 



