HARDY SHRUBS FOR FORCING. 



121 



Large growers, spreading from 10 to 20 inches: — 8. 

 arboreum, S. aureum, S. canariense, S. cucare, S. cuneatum, 

 S. dorame, S. holochrysum, S, urbicum, S. velutinum. (Fig. 

 749.) 



Dwarf growers, spreading from 4 to 10 inches: — S. 

 aureum, S. balsamiferum, S. Haworthil, S. pavice, and S. 

 tabulcvfovmc. 



Stapelia. — Toad-flower, or Carrion plant. A large 

 genus of greenhouse plants, of great interest on account 

 of their floral structure and the peculiarities of their 

 growth. They grow freely on an exposed shelf, requir- 

 ing but little water in winter, but to be freely supplied 

 when growing in summer. They have been divided 

 into several genera ; but as the distinctions are only in 

 structural development, not in diversity of shape, we 

 retain them all under Stapelia. They illustrate the fact 

 that instinct is not reason, in that the flies deposit their 

 ova on the flowers when open, mistaking them for flesh, 

 the result being the frustration of the design of the fly — 

 the development of the ova — to the advantage of the 

 plant, the fly becoming an agent in impregnating the 

 flowers. 



The best-known species are S. Bayfieldii, S. Bufonia, 

 S. campanidata, S. europosa, S. gigantea, S. glauca, S. hir- 

 sute!,, S. maculosa, S. patida, S. planiflora, S. Plantii, S. 

 radiata, S. Thuretii, S. variabilis, S. variegata. 



CHAPTER XXXVII. 



HARDY SHRUBS FOR FORCING. 



Large numbers of hardy shrubs are now 

 grown solely for forcing, either for the supply 

 of cut flowers or to be used as plants in flower 

 for furnishing conservatories, or for the decora- 

 tion of halls and large rooms. The gorgeous 

 flowers of the Tree Pseonies ; Lilac, in variety of 

 colour, and always fragrant; Roses, doubly valu- 

 able in early spring, when their flowers are so 

 delicate in colour and in perfume; the double 

 Peach; Pyrus and Thorn; Rhododendrons, both 

 evergreen and deciduous, fill conservatory or 

 room with interest and beauty during winter's 

 dull days. 



Though shrubs for forcing can be purchased 

 at a reasonable rate, it is more economical to 

 set aside a piece of ground for their culture, 

 and work up a supply of plants at home. In 

 this way healthy young plants would be at 

 hand to replace exhausted ones, which could 

 be rejuvenated by giving them a rest of a year 

 or two in the nursery. In addition to ground 

 for purposes of planting, a plunging -ground 

 is essential, for although some shrubs require 

 planting-out every other year, there are others 

 that must always be grown in pots. 



To obtain good, well -ripened wood, the 

 ground selected for the nursery should be 

 exposed to full sun. For the majority a rich 

 medium loam will be found most suitable, add- 



ing peat and leaf -mould for Ericaceous plants. 

 It is preferable to raise plants from cuttings, 

 seeds, or grafts, and grow them for two years 

 without flowering. This time should be spent 

 in laying a good foundation for the future 

 plant; consequently all weak, useless wood 

 should be removed, so that the whole strength 

 may go to permanent parts, and the maximum 

 amount of sun and air be admitted to the 

 whole. At three years of age most shrubs 

 are in first-rate condition for forcing. Those 

 grown in borders should be lifted in October, 

 potted, and plunged in ashes or light soil until 

 required for use. 



If the cultivator has ample means at his 

 disposal, such shrubs as Lilac, Staphylea, and 

 a few Rhododendrons may be had in flower 

 at Christmas, if given special treatment during 

 summer and while being forced. February, 

 March, and April are the three months at 

 which the forced shrubs generally are at their 

 best, and for this they do not require excessive 

 heat. As a rule it is better to place shrubs in 

 a temperature not exceeding 50° for the first 

 fortnight, afterwards raising it to 60" or more 

 with sun -heat as the buds begin to swell. 

 Much greater heat than this can be used, but 

 it is better to take a week or two longer with 

 a lower temperature than to use great heat. 

 The plants are then not so much exhausted; 

 they also develop healthy foliage with the 

 flowers, which is better than when leaves are 

 absent. A moist atmosphere must be kept 

 in the forcing -house, and the plants be well 

 syringed several times daily. As flowers begin 

 to open, the plants should be removed to a cool 

 house. To get plants into flower for the earlier 

 dates from four to six weeks are required; for 

 March and April from two to four weeks. Any 

 that require special treatment are dealt with 

 separately. 



After the flowers are over the plants must 

 be pruned, cutting out all weak, worthless, and 

 old flowering wood to encourage a strong new 

 growth. Throughout the summer weak, use- 

 less shoots should be taken out. Plants that 

 have been forced should be placed in a cool 

 house until all danger of frost is gone, kept 

 growing, and given abundance of air. To- 

 wards the middle of May those that require a 

 year's rest should be planted in the nursery, 

 others that may be used for another season 

 being plunged and well fed until growth is 

 completed. 



Acer. — The suitable plants are confined principally 

 to three species — A. japonicum, A. palmatum, and A. 



