626 



THE GARDENEK'S ASSISTANT. 



to a light, sunny position. If started too early, or in too 

 high a temperature, leaves are developed instead of 

 flowers. When the plants are in active growth manure 

 water may be used freely. A light, airy position is 

 essential. 



Freesia. — Bulbs that have been ripened off early may 

 be potted about the end of July in a light, rich compost 

 of leaf-mould, stable manure, and good loam, in equal 

 parts, with sand. They should be an inch below the 

 surface. They may be stood outside in a sunny position, 

 giving water sparingly. If removed to a pit before the 

 frosty weather sets in, and transferred to a shelf in an 



Fiy. 754— Wistaria chinensis. 



intermediate house about the middle of November, with 

 careful watering they will flower well early in the year ; 

 or by placing them in a frame till October, and then re- 

 moving them into warmth and sunshine, they may be had 

 in flower before Christmas. 



Fritillaria. — When well established in pots these 

 may be started early in the year in an intermediate 

 temperature and a light, sunny position; manure may be 

 used freely after they are well started into growth. They 

 must not be allowed to get quite dry, and over-watering 

 must also be avoided. F. imperialis (Crown Imperial) 

 and F. meleagris (Snake's Head or Plover's Eggs) are the 

 two used. 



Funkia. — Several of these, if established a season in 

 pots, may be started in warmth and make fine pot plants, 

 the foliage alone being very effective. They should be 

 potted in strong loam and kept in a frame, not allowing 

 them to get dry. F. Sieboldi, and the variety variegata, 

 F. grandiflora, and F. undidata may be recommended. 

 The variegated forms are prettier than when grown out- 

 of-doors, and their leaves are extensively used during the 

 spring by the London florists. 



Gladiolus. — Several sorts are useful for early forcing. 

 Early in the autumn the bulbs should be potted in a good 



loamy compost, planting several together in a 6-inch pot. 

 They may be placed in a cool pit, or in any position where 

 frost cannot reach them. When growth is visible above 

 the soil they may be removed to a warmer position to 

 flower quite early in the year. The sorts that force 

 well are Colvillei, and the white form alba, The Bride, 

 Brenchleyensis, and Gandavensis. 



Hyacinth. — For early forcing a great deal depends 

 upon securing firm, well-matured bulbs. The treatment 

 cannot increase the number of flowers, but their size and 

 the strength of the spikes may be improved by good cul- 

 ture. They should be treated as advised on p. 450 until 

 required for forcing. If the roots are not then well through 

 they should only have a moderately warm position for a 

 time, and an inverted pot may be placed over those not 

 well advanced in growth. As soon as the leaves open 

 and leave the spikes free they should have all the light 

 possible, and may be liberally supplied with liquid manure. 

 The following sorts force well : — 



White. — Blan chard, Baroness van Thuyl, La Grandesse, 

 Mde. Van der Hoop, Mont Blanc, Grandeur a Merveille 

 (blush). 



Pink or Red. — Gigantea, Norma, Robert Steeger. 



Blue. — Adeline Patti, Baron van Thuyl, Charles 

 Dickens, Czar Peter. 



Yellow. — King of the Yellows, La Pluie d'Or, La 

 Citronmere, MacMahon. 



Iris. — The varieties of both English and Spanish Iris 

 may be forced for early flowers, and they provide a 

 number of bright tints in colours which are much ap- 

 preciated. Potted in good loam, leaf -mould, and manure, 

 and placed in a cool, shady position in a frame, they soon 

 respond to a little extra warmth, and may be had in flower 

 some weeks earlier than those in the open ground by giving 

 them an ordinary greenhouse temperature. Some useful 

 sorts are Bleu Celeste, Miss Barkley, Mountain of Snow, 

 Mont Blanc, and Pourpre Blenatre. 



Lilium. — The most useful for forcing are L. longiflorum, 

 L. I/arrisii, L. candidum, L. speciosum, and the variety 

 album. The bulbs should be potted as early as possible 

 after they are ripe in good yellow loam, leaf-mould, and 

 manure, planting them rather low in the pots, so as to 

 allow space for top-dressing later. With plenty of light 

 and air they may be hastened on with heat, but in dull, 

 dark weather heat will only make the flower-stems weak 

 and lanky. 



Lily of the Valley. — German crowns are preferable 

 to either Dutch or English, the flowers being larger and 

 opening all at one time. The single crowns may be potted 

 twelve to twenty-four in a 4- or 6-inch pot, or they may be 

 planted in small boxes and covered with fibre-refuse or 

 other similar material, which should remain until they 

 are well started. For early forcing a close pit with plenty 

 of bottom -heat is desirable, plunging the pots in moist 

 material, keeping them close and dark until the flowers 

 begin to open, when they may be gradually exposed to 

 light, but not to bright sunlight. If moved into a rather 

 cooler position for a few days before cutting they will 

 last longer. 



Marguerite. — These are now popular flowers for 

 winter, the best white being Halleri maxima, also used 

 for summer bedding. Cuttings struck early in the spring 

 may be grown on as for bedding, and potted on into 

 5 -inch pots to stand in the open until early in July. 

 They should then be cut back close and all old leaves 

 removed. As soon as they start into growth again they 

 may be potted into pots one size larger in rather poor 

 soil to check excessive growth. When they begin to 



