KITCHEN-GARDEN VEGETABLES. 
moved. The distance asunder at which the 
plants may stand in the row varies from 6 to 
18inches. These are extremes; the latter should 
only be adopted where large heads are to be 
grown for competition. When the plants are 
far apart, they grow too strong, fibrous, and 
coarse. This may well be avoided by planting 
8 or 9 inches apart in the rows. 
Planting in Beds.—The ground should be 
marked out in 6-feet widths, and in such a posi- 
tion as the rows, when planted across them, will 
be north-and-south; the surface of the ground 
in the intervals will thus be directly exposed to 
the heating influence of the sun’s rays at noon; 
whilst both sides of the row will be equally ex- 
posed to light. ach alternate 6-feet space is 
dug out about a foot deep, and the soil laid right 
-and left on the intermediate spaces. If the 
ground has not been previously trenched, the 
bottom, after the foot of soil has been taken out, 
should be deeply dug over, especially for late 
Celery, in order that superfluous moisture may 
pass downwards. The directions for the manure 
or compost for the trenches are also applicable 
to the beds. Near Edinburgh, where the bed 
system is preferred by the market-gardeners, the 
plants are placed 9 inches apart, in rows 14 
inches asunder. Nicol directs that the rows 
should be 20 inches asunder, and the plants 8 
inches from each other in the row. This gives 
122 plants per rod, instead of 155, as by the 
former distances; but the rows may be 16 inches 
apart, and the plants 8 inches from each other 
in the rows; then the rod will contain 152 
plants, very nearly as many as is obtained by 
the present Edinburgh practice. The greater 
space between the rows must be an advantage 
in earthing up, while the distance of 8 inches 
between the plants in the row will be sufficient 
for the size to which Celery in beds is required 
to be grown. 
Subsequent Culture.—This chiefly consists in 
watering, stirring the surface of the ground, 
keeping it clear of weeds, removing suckers or 
side-shoots, and blanching. After transplanting, 
water should be given, so as to keep the earth 
moist, but not saturated, till the plants take 
fresh root. Afterwards, abundance of water 
should be given. If manure has not been plenti- 
fully supplied, manure-water may be given oc- 
casionally; but it should not be strong, other- 
wise a rank growth is induced, and the flavour 
of the crop deteriorated. The surface of the 
ground should be stirred when it is rather dry 
than moist. The outside leaves possessed by 
the plant at the time of planting never grow to 
431 
a large size; therefore, when more vigorous ones 
have been produced, these old-and comparatively 
useless leaves may be removed. This should be 
done before earthing up takes place. When 
allowed to remain, they generally rot. In order 
to kill slugs, worms, and other vermin, the sur- 
face of the ground should be sprinkled with 
quicklime, and some finely powdered, mixed 
with soot, may be occasionally dusted thinly 
over the foliage. Salt may also be applied in 
moderate quantities; but it should not come 
into contact with the plants. 
Blanching.—A leaf, or leaf-stalk, grown in the 
dark is blanched, and the parts so treated are 
destitute of the green colouring matter, for the 
production of which light is essential. But the 
substance as well as the colour of plants grown 
in the dark is different from that of plants grown 
in the light. The part of it which we do not 
grow in the dark cannot be blanched, as it should 
be, white, crisp, and tender, by any subsequent 
seclusion from light. This proves that the prac- 
tice of allowing Celery to grow nearly to its full 
size and then earthing it is a mistake. A large 
plant is thus obtained; the outside or oldest 
leaves are firm, with strong fibres, and are unfit 
for use, except in cooking, for the longer the 
plant grows in the light the stronger its flavour 
becomes. 
The plants should be allowed to grow as freely 
exposed to light as possible for some time after 
planting. When earthing up is commenced, the 
soil should not be pressed too closely against 
the plants, for the heart-leaves must have room 
to push up; no soil ought to touch them, neither 
should the outside stalks be made to surround 
them closely till the final earthing up. As the 
plants advance in growth, the earthing up must 
be repeated at intervals of about ten days, or 
according as the weather proves favourable for 
the operation, which should not be performed 
when the leaves are wet, and the drier the soil 
the better. Some tie up the leaf-stalks loosely 
with matting, and then earth up. The best 
method is to gather the stalks together with 
both hands, hold them with one hand, and with 
the other bring as much loosened soil against 
one side of the plant as may be necessary, then, 
changing hands, bring up the soil on the op- 
posite side. The heart is thus kept clear of soil. 
Until the last earthing up, at least, the soil 
should not be put higher than the tops of the 
set of leaves next to the outside ones. The 
leaflets will thus be left exposed to enable them 
to carry on their functions, and contribute to 
the growth of the stem and roots. At the fina! 
