KITCHEN-GARDEN VEGETABLES. 
or in holes made by a blunt dibber. The soil 
cannot be too loose, and trench-planting has, in 
this respect, a great advantage over planting 
with the dibber. In planting in trenches, if 
the ground requires no manure, let an opening 
be taken out along one side of the quarter in 
the direction of north and 
south, or nearly so; next, dig 
a breadth equal to rather more 
than halt the distance between 
the rows, then stretch the line 
at the half-distance from the 
edge of the quarter, and cut 
down by the line to the depth 
of 6 inches, or to whatever 
other depth the sets are to be 
put. Then place the sets, 
with the eyes or buds upwards, 
in a line along the bottom, at 
the proper distance asunder, 
and cover them with some 
well-broken soil. After this 
dig another breadth, levelling 
the surface at the same time, 
and stretching the line at the 
distance which is to be al- 
lowed between the rows; cut 
out another trench, plant the 
sets as before; and so proceed 
till the whole is completed. 
If dung is to be used, the 
trenches must be cut a little 
deeper. A wide opening should 
be maintained by drawing the 
Fig. 1258.—Potato 
Planter. 
soil well forward, so that the bottom of the | 
trench may be wide and the layer of manure 
may be spread equally. It isadvisable to throw 
some soil over the manure previous to placing 
the sets, which are liable to be injured if placed 
in contact with it. 
Dibber-planting is extensively practised, and 
is perhaps the most expeditious, except where 
the plough can be employed. The mode of 
proceeding is very simple. A blunt dibber, 
having a cross tread rather farther from the 
end than the depth at which the sets are in- 
tended to be planted, is used by one person to 
make holes, whilst another drops in the sets, so 
that the eyes of the latter may be uppermost. 
The holes are afterwards filled up with earth 
drawn by the hoe. 
In dibber-planting, moist soils are rendered 
too compact by the treading in performing the 
operation; and, if the soil be dry and light, the 
earth falls more or less into the holes, and the 
sets are consequently at unequal depths. For 
495 
these reasons we consider that planting by the 
spade or fork—the latter answering best on 
badly working soils—is preferable to that by 
the dibber for garden crops; and it will be found 
that the advantages with which the former 
method is attended will more than compensate 
for the saving of time effected by adopting the 
latter. 
In some parts of the country, and particularly 
in Lancashire, the ground for early crops is 
thrown up in ridges before winter; in spring a 
portion of the pulverized soil from the surface 
of the ridges is collected in the bottom of the 
furrows; a little manure is placed over this, and 
the sets are planted upon it and covered with 
2 inches of soil. When the young plants appear 
another 2 inches of soil is added, and 2 inches 
more when they push through again. 
Subsequent Culture.—This consists in stirring 
the surface of the ground, keeping it clear of 
weeds, and earthing up the plants. The more 
the ground is pulverized the better. It is a 
good plan to hoe it over, when not too moist, 
before the shoots reach the surface; and again 
before earthing up, if it is not naturally friable. 
As regards the growth of the plant and bulk of 
produce, this operation is altogether unnecessary 
in deep, light soils; for the roots are, in general, 
found below the level of the original surface of 
the ground, so that they do not derive any 
benefit from the operation; and in dry seasons 
and in dry soils the crops from plants earthed 
up have been lighter than where they have not 
been earthed up, probably owing to the earth 
being drawn to a sharp ridge, by which the rain 
is thrown off beyond the roots. 
Earthing up is advantageous, and even neces- 
sary, for Potatoes which have a tendency to 
throw their tubers above the surface. About 
ten days or a fortnight after the plants have 
appeared above-ground, a little earth should be 
drawn towards the stems, but not so as to cover 
the foliage, or interfere with its free exposure 
to light. If the soil is not very moist, and the 
season dry, this earthing up should be highest 
at the outsides, so that in consequence of the 
slope towards the plants the rain may penetrate 
to the roots; and the earth should not be drawn 
so as to leave the interval deepest in the middle, 
otherwise the rain-water would run there, in- 
stead of to the roots. On the other hand, where 
there is too much moisture, the earth should be 
made to slope from the plants. As these ad- 
vance in growth the intervals between the rows 
should be stirred and made fine, to render the 
soil suitable for the second and final earthing 
