514 
they will be in perfection, and before frost sets 
in a quantity may be taken up and stored in 
sand for a supply during its continuance. At 
other times the roots remaining in the ground 
Fig. 1281.—Scorzonera (Scorzonera hispanica). 
will afford a supply throughout the winter and 
spring, and will continue fit for use till April 
or May, about which time the plants begin to 
run to flower. Before this takes place any 
roots remaining in the ground should be taken 
up and placed in sand. The seeds ripen in 
autumn, and are best when saved from plants 
two years old. 
Sea-Kale (Crambe maritima) (fig. 1282).— 
A hardy perennial, native of Europe, including 
Britain, where it grows on the sea-coasts. It 
has been cultivated for more than a century, 
but most extensively within the last fifty years. 
Formerly the green leaves were used boiled as | 
greens; but now the young blanched shoots are | 
each leaf, and in the spring of the second year of 
the parts used, and the chief aim in its cultiva- 
tion is to produce them large, crisp, and well | 
blanched. 
Soil and Situation.—The situation for a planta- | 
tion of Sea-Kale should be open to the sun, and 
not under the drip of trees. The best soil is a 
rich, deep, sandy loam, but the plant will suc- 
ceed in any good garden ground that is not stiff. 
The kinds of manure here recommended for 
Asparagus will also be suitable for Sea-Kale. 
THE GARDENER’S ASSISTANT. 
The ground should be trenched to the depth of 
from 2 to 24 feet, and according as it is poor or 
rich, more or less farmyard or other manure 
should be well incorporated with ‘it. 
Cultivation.—Sow in rich soil in March, or as 
early in April as possible, in rows | foot asunder, 
and thin the plants to 6 inches apart in the rows. 
Stir the ground, and keep the plants clear of 
weeds during the season. Towards midsummer, 
a sprinkling of salt or of nitrate of soda may be 
applied with beneficial effects. Hither of these 
salts may be sown over the leaves of the plants 
as well as on the ground, and no injury will 
result. 3 
In the following March, the ground being 
trenched and duly prepared, commence at 24 feet 
from the side of the quarter, and mark three 
rows at 24 feet apart. Then a 3-foot space should 
| be allowed; and again three rows should be 
| marked off at 24 feet apart, and so on. If ground 
is scarce, 1t will nevertheless be advisable to re- 
tain the distance of 3 feet between every third 
and fourth row; but between the others an in- 
terval of only 2 feet may be allowed. This dis- 
tance will also be proper for a plantation which 
is to be forced, only the plants should be 2 feet 
apart in the row, in order to admit of blanching 
pots being placed over them. 
When the plants are taken up, the top of each 
with all the crown-buds should be pared off. If 
this precaution be not taken, the plants would 
be apt to run to seed in the first summer after 
planting; but when the crown is cut off, several 
buds will push which will not have this ten- 
dency. A trench about 1 foot deep should then 
be made by the side of a line, and the plants 
inserted so that their crowns may be about 
2 inches below the surface. Watering after 
planting is not required, at least till the plants 
have struck fresh root. 
After planting, the growth of the plant should 
be promoted as much as possible, and with this 
view a mulching of rotten dung may be applied, 
or liquid manure may be occasionally given. The 
flower-stems, if any push, should be cut off as 
they appear. Buds will be formed in the axils of 
planting they will form a sprout which becomes 
fit for use when blanched, and of course the 
larger and more vigorous it is the better. Its 
strength greatly depends on that of the bud, and 
this again on the size of the leaf in the previous 
autumn; efforts should therefore be made to 
grow only large leaves. In order to do this it 
is advisable to make an early removal of some 
of the weaker ones, so that a limited number 
