544 
Sow successions at the early part and end of the 
month of the best Marrow kinds. Tall growers 
are recommended for a late crop. 
Potatoes.—Hoe between the rows, and earth 
up such as are above-ground. 
Ftadishes.—Make successional sowings in a 
shady situation. 
Rampion.—Sow about the end of the month, 
on a shady border of rich earth. 
Ehubarb.—Remove flower-stalks as they ap- 
pear. 
Scarlet Runners.—Sow in the first week for 
the earliest crop; if injured by cold weather, 
sow later those intended to be staked, at 6 feet | 
apart between the rows; otherwise 3 feet will 
suffice. 
Scorzonera.—Sow a little seed in the course of | 
the month, lest the first sowing should run to 
seed. 
Spinach.Sow successions. 
vanced crops. 
Tomatoes.—Plant out against a south wall in 
the end of the month. 
Turnips.—Sow for summer use. 
crops sufficiently advanced. 
Thin, out ad- 
Thin out 
HARDY-FRUIT DEPARTMENT. 
Wall-trees must now be carefully inspected— 
insect pests should be destroyed by syringing 
the trees with tobacco or quassia water in tlte 
mornings of dull, mild days. All shoots not 
wanted in the more vigorous parts of the tree 
should be early removed, or topped at the fifth 
or sixth leaf; those on the weaker parts should 
be sparingly dealt with, for, whilst they can be 
left, they tend to establish a stronger flow of 
sap in the direction most desirable. Shoots left. 
on strong parts, and likely to become over-vig- 
orous, should be stopped when about 6 inches in 
length, in order to form two shoots of moderate 
strength. Train and nail shoots as required. 
At the end of the month thin Apricots, Peaches, 
and Nectarines. Syringe the trees frequently, 
early in the morning if the nights are cold, but 
otherwise about four in the afternoon. Apply 
sulphur for mildew. Pick off all curled and 
blistered leaves. See that the soil is sufficiently 
moist for the roots. Remove suckers. Weed 
and water Strawberry plantations. Make secure 
the shoots of budded trees. 
ForcING DEPARTMENT, 
Basil.—Plant out in the end of the month, on 
a warm and sheltered border. 
the flowers. 
that there be no excess of dryness, either in the 
THE GARDENER’S ASSISTANT. 
Lgg-plants.—Those sown in March should now 
be shifted into larger pots for fruiting under 
glass, or planted out in a warm situation at the 
end of the month. | 
Gourds.-—-Harden off, and plant out. 
Mushrooms.—Maintain a steady temperature 
and moist atmosphere; little water will then be 
necessary. | | 
Tomatoes should be hardened off for planting 
out at the middle of next month. They should — 
| be protected at night for some time after plant- 
ing out. 
Cucumbers.—Maintain a steady bottom-heat, 
and an air temperature of 70° or 75° by night 
_and 80° to 90° on sunny days. Stop the shoots 
at the second joint and train them regularly 
about the trellis. Sow in the beginning of the 
month for frames and hand-glasses. 
Melons.—Continue to stop laterals, and set 
Remove all sickly leaves, and see 
soil or the air. If red spider appear, no time 
should be lost to prevent its increase. When 
the fruit is ripening, water must be almost 
entirely withheld, otherwise the flavour would 
be deteriorated. Shade only when absolutely 
necessary. Plant out for late crops; some seeds 
may also be sown. 
Pine-A pples.—Maintain a steady bottom-heat 
of from 80° to 90°. The air in the fruiting- 
house may range from 75° to 85°, rising to 95° 
by sun-heat. Succession plants may now be 
allowed plenty of heat and moisture, to pro- 
mote vigorous growth; the temperature at 
night should be 70°, with a freer admission of 
air in the day. Sprinkle the paths, and syringe 
overhead soon after 3 p.m., all except plants 
that have ripened their fruit. Shut up im- 
mediately after, and closely, if the temperature 
be not more than 90°. Give manure water alter- 
nately with pure water. All suckers except one 
should be removed from fruiting plants. 
Vines.—Fire-heat will be required to main- 
tain a progressively increasing temperature. In 
houses where the Grapes are approaching ma- 
turity, and during the colouring process, and 
until it is finished, let the laterals grow freely; 
the temperature at night should not be less 
than 70°, and it may be allowed to rise to 85° 
in the day, or 95° by sun-heat. Muscats should 
have, both night and day, a temperature at 
least 5° higher. When the Grapes are ripe the 
temperature should be lowered, with the view 
of keeping the fruit from shrivelling. The 
later vineries will require but little fire-heat in 
fine weather. Give a little air when the tem- 
