550 
Balm.—Gather for drying; it may now be 
propagated by slips. 
Borage.—Sow for late use. 
Borecole.—Plant out. 
Broccoli.—Plant out for the late crop, and 
water frequently. 
Brussels Sprouts.—In cold northern situations 
sow for transplanting in spring. 
Cabbage.—The principal autumn sowing should 
be made-about the 8th. Plant out those sown 
for Coleworts. 
Cardoons.—Band a few of the earliest with 
hay or straw, and earth up for blanch- 
ing. 
Carrots.—In the beginning of the month sow 
Early Horn, for spring use, in a warm sheltered 
situation. 
Cauliflowers. Sow about the 20th in a frame. 
Prick out the plants 6 inches apart in a frame 
or pit, where they are to remain until the spring. 
Protect from frost whenever necessary, but ex- 
pose fully when there is no fear of frost. This 
sowing may be made a little earlier or later, ac- 
cording as the situation is cold or warm. Do 
not allow them to suffer from drought. 
Celeriac.—Suckers should be closely removed 
from the top of the root. 
Jelery.—Earth up the early crops as they ad- 
vance, taking care to keep the hearts of the plants 
free from soil. Apply lime for slugs, and attend 
to watering. 
Chervil may be sown for succession. 
Tuberous-rooted. 
Corn Salad.—In the first fortnight sow 
winter supply. 
Endive.—Sow seeds from the beginning to the 
middle of the month, and for a late crop plant 
out from previous sowings; plants sufficiently 
advanced should be tied up to blanch. 
Garlic.—Take up the bulbs when the leaves 
become yellowish and begin to wither; spread 
to dry in the sun, but shelter them from rain. 
When well dried, string them by their withered 
leaves on a dry straw rope. 
Lettuce.-—If not done last month, prepare a 
bed for sowing out-of-doors the first main crop, 
an important one. 
of the month sow such hardy sorts as Hammer- 
smith Hardy Green and Tennis Ball, for stand- 
ing the winter in a sheltered situation. Con- 
tinue to tie up advancing crops. 
Onions.—Sow seeds on the first week both 
for standing the winter and for drawing young; 
and at the middle of the month make another 
sowing for succession of the Queen, Early White 
Naples, and Rocca. Take up the main crop 
Sow the 
for 
From the 15th to the 20th | 
THE GARDENER’S ASSISTANT. 
when ripe, and spread in the sun, on dry ground 
or gravel, till dry for housing. 
Peas.—Those sown last month for the latest 
crop should be kept well mulched and watered. 
ftadishes.—Black and White Spanish, for au- 
tumn and winter use, may be sown; also some of 
the Early White and Scarlet Turnip-rooted. 
Shallots.—Take up when the leaves begin to 
wither, and treat in the same way as Garlic. 
Spinach.—Sow the main winter crops at the 
beginning and middle of the month. A large 
breadth of this useful winter vegetable should 
be grown. 
Tomatoes, placed against a wall or paling, 
should be kept nailed or stopped. Gather fruit 
when ripe. 
Turnips.—Make a small sowing of the White 
Stone and other hardy sorts early in the month, 
for spring use. 
Harpy-FRvuIt DEPARTMENT. 
The gathering of various fruits will require 
particular attention in this month. Early kinds 
of Apples and Pears, if gathered a few days too 
early, will be watery and insipid, and will not | 
become sugary by lying in the fruit-room. If, 
on the other hand, they are allowed to remain a 
few days longer on the trees than they ought 
to do, they become mealy. The time to gather 
can be readily ascertained by cutting a fruit 
of Apple or Pear in two pieces, and examin- 
ing the pips; if brown, the fruit is fit to be 
gathered. Very early kinds of Apples for a 
family supply are best gathered as required, 
because otherwise they lose their freshness. 
Gooseberries, Currants, Raspberries, and Straw- 
berries are best gathered when cool and dry; 
but Peaches, Nectarines, Apricots, Plums, and 
Cherries may be gathered when dry at any time 
of the day. 
Protect Morello Cherries on walls by netting, ~ 
also Gooseberry and Currant trees, if the fruit is 
to be preserved to prolong the season. Peach 
and Nectarine trees should have a number of 
dry Bean-stalks introduced among the branches 
to trap ear-wigs. Go over these every morning, 
| and blow the insects out of the Bean-stalks into 
a bottle half-filled with water; replace the stalks, 
and continue till the insects are reduced to few 
or none. Crevices between the soil and the 
bottom of the wall are highly favourable to 
insects, such as ants, wood-lice, &c. The soil 
close to the wall should be frequently stirred. _ 
Continue to train the shoots of wall-trees, nail- 
ing them in as may be required; and, as this is 
