12 



CALENDAB FOR THE FLOWER-GARDEN. 



during bright sunny weather, it is often neces- 

 sary to use increased fire -heat in autumn to 

 mature the growth. If insects of any kind 

 make their unwelcome appearance, they should 

 be promptly dealt with by either dipping the 

 plants in soft-soap solution or by sponging, 

 taking care not to injure the tender foliage. 



Hothouse. — As the heat increases, con- 

 siderable attention will be requisite to keep 

 insect pests in check, as they increase and 

 multiply exceedingly fast. Mealy-bug is one of 

 the most obnoxious of these that the gardener 

 has to contend with, but every effort should be 

 made to eradicate it. Thin out and regulate 

 shoots of Clerodendron Balfourianum, Stephanotis, 

 and other stove climbers that they may not 

 become overcrowded. Where plants for table 

 decoration have to be grown to a considerable 

 extent, a suitable selection of these should be 

 made and put forward for the purpose. By 

 potting them now they will become well estab- 

 lished by autumn, so that there will be less 

 risk on removing them to a lower temperature. 

 Plants for this purpose should be allowed 

 plenty of room, that they may be thoroughly 

 developed. Coco* Weddeliana, Cyperus alterni- 

 folia variegata, Aralia Veitchii, A. V. gracillima, 

 Asparagus plumosus nana, Crotons of sorts, 

 Dracaena gracilis, I), rvihra, and others of like 

 character, Eulalia japonica, Caladium argyrites, 

 Pandanus Veitchii, P. javanicus, small plants of 

 Ardisia, and other berry-bearing species. Seed 

 of the Common Asparagus may also be sown 

 in pots to supply greenery during the winter 

 months. 



Intermediate House. — Celosias, Cocks- 

 combs, Torenias, and various other free-flower- 

 ing plants of similar nature that are grown 

 for the object of furnishing the conservatory, 

 should be potted on as they require it, and 

 fresh seed should be sown to provide plants 

 to take the place of those which have finished 

 flowering. Gloxinia plants in flower should 

 be kept well shaded from the sun, and any 

 varieties that it is thought desirable to increase 

 should have some of the best leaves removed 

 for this purpose. If these leaves have the 

 main ribs cut through with a sharp knife, and 

 are then pegged on the surface of pans filled 

 with a mixture of finely-sifted peat and sand, 

 afterwards being plunged into a moderate hot- 

 bed, they will soon form corms. These, by the 

 end of the season, will have grown large enough 

 to make strong plants the following year. 



Achimenes and Gesneras should be staked as 

 growth proceeds to prevent them bending down. 



Greenhouse and Conservatory. — Most 

 of the hard-wooded plants will by this time 

 have completed their growth, and may be stood 

 in shaded situations out of doors, where they 

 will thrive far better during the next three 

 months than under the heat of a glass structure. 

 Their places may be occupied by some of the 

 more tender flowering plants, or for growing 

 on Fuchsias, Balsams, Campanula pyramidalis, 

 tuberous-rooted Begonias, and similar things 

 for decorating the conservatory, as it will be 

 necessary to make frequent changes in the 

 latter structure at this time of the year, if it 

 is to be kept tidy, for, owing to the heat, 

 flowers soon fade, and on that account necessi- 

 tate constant removals. 



Pits and Frames. 



This is a good time to layer Perpetual Carna- 

 tions for winter flowering. If the pots can 

 be plunged to their rims in an old hot-bed, and 

 plenty of room allowed between them, so that 

 the shoots can be brought down and pegged 

 into the soil, they will soon take root. When 

 layered they should be well watered, and after- 

 wards covered with the lights and shaded from 

 the sun. Plants rooted from cuttings in early 

 spring will need potting on, and either standing 

 on a bed of ashes in the open, or in a cold 

 frame, where they can be protected in case of 

 heavy rain. 



Mignonette for winter flowering should now 

 be sown. If the weather be hot and dry, shade 

 till the seedlings appear above the soil. Zonal 

 Pelargoniums for winter flowering should also 

 be put into their permanent pots, and after- 

 wards stood on a bed of ashes in the full sun- 

 light. Heliotropes, Bouvardias, Primulas, and 

 Cinerarias will need attention, as the plants 

 become sufficiently large to be shifted, for if 

 they are permitted to get pot-bound, they sel- 

 dom make much further progress. Cuttings of 

 Hydrangea hortensis, Otaksa, and Thomas Hogg, 

 should be inserted in cold frames to supply 

 plants which will flower early in spring. Pot 

 on Eupatorium, Linum trigynum, and other 

 plants of similar habit for winter blooming. 

 Sow seed of Cyclamen and Calceolaria where 

 early plants are required. 



Flower-garden and Pleasure Ground. 



Make another sowing of Sweet-peas at the 

 commencement of the month to give a late 

 supply of bloom, also sow seed of Brompton, 

 East Lothian, and other Stocks, various her- 

 baceous plants, such as Aquilegias, Delphiniums, 



