SEPTEMBER 



15 



done, as growth commences immediately after- 

 wards. Towards the end of the month shad- 

 ing may be dispensed with, as the sun has 

 not sufficient power so late in the year to 

 do harm. Some of the early spring-flowering 

 Cypripediums should be looked over, and if 

 any need potting this should be done before 

 the days get too short or the temperature cold. 

 If the plants are robust, a mixture of good turfy 

 loam and cow-dung may be used, if the former 

 can be obtained from ground containing a small 

 percentage only of lime. For the more delicate 

 kinds use peat, covering the surface of the pots 

 with living Sphagnum. Most of the Vandas 

 belonging to the tricolor section may now be 

 potted with safety. These plants are apt to 

 become leggy if left alone too long, therefore 

 their stems should be shortened and the roots 

 brought nearer to the pots. This class only re- 

 quires something to steady their stems ; so that if 

 clean crocks and charcoal are used, covering the 

 surface with a little peat and Sphagnum, it will be 

 sufficient. The plants will need but little water 

 at the roots, as the necessary syringing will keep 

 them well supplied with moisture. They should 

 be kept under a temperature of from 65° to 70° 

 at night for the present, with a corresponding 

 rise in the daytime, according to the weather. 

 Lcelia anceps, L. albida, and L. autumnalis will 

 now be showing their flower-spikes, and should 

 be kept still in a moist state. Most of the Catt- 

 leyas will by this time have finished growth, so 

 that watering must be done carefully. Ccelogyne 

 cristata, Sobralia macrantha, Cymlidium Lowianwn, 

 and some others will still need good supplies of 

 water, and if a little liquid manure could be 

 added to assist them to finish their growth, this 

 would be very beneficial. As all plants mature 

 their growth they should be gradually hardened 

 off", so that they may be the better able to with- 

 stand the winter. There are, however, many 

 species still in active growth which will need 

 particular care. 



Hothouse. — Many winter -flowering sub- 

 jects in these structures will now need special 

 attention, in order to induce them to produce 

 their blooms at the time required. Centropogon 

 Lucianus, Eranthemum Andersonii, Ruellia macran- 

 tha, Plumbago coccinea, Poinsettias, and the winter- 

 flowering Gesneras should be exposed to the 

 sun as much as possible, so that their shoots 

 may reach their full development. Caladiums 

 should be thoroughly dried off, and when all 

 leaves have fallen the pots may be stored away 

 under the stage, but do not remove them into 

 a lower temperature than 60°. Gloxinias may 



be removed to a house in which the heat does not 

 fall below 50° If allowed to remain in the warm 

 stove the bulbs will shrivel, or will, if moisture 

 is afforded, recommence growing. Ixoras, Cro- 

 tons, Dracaenas, and other plants should be kept 

 free from insects. Gardenias and Eucharis for 

 winter-flowering should have liberal treatment, 

 with plenty of heat, the temperature being 

 maintained at 70° by night, with a rise of 10° 

 in the daytime. Towards the end of the month 

 all shading may be abandoned, unless it be in 

 the case of newly-potted seedlings or other plants 

 having but little root. 



Greenhouse and Conservatory. — A 

 goodly quantity of Mignonette should be sown 

 during this month — one lot at the commence- 

 ment, and another towards the latter end. 

 Chrysanthemums will demand special care, in- 

 cluding disbudding and protection from frost. 

 Water must be given abundantly, if the weather 

 be hot and dry, as sometimes is the case, in the 

 early part of the month. This sometimes occurs, 

 however, in conjunction with frosty nights, when 

 it will be found necessary in low damp places 

 to house them early. The first batch of Zonal 

 Pelargoniums plunged in ashes should be housed, 

 as should also the earliest set of Perpetual Car- 

 nations and Bouvardias. Advantage should be 

 taken of the present opportunity, before many 

 of the hard-wooded plants are taken in, to prune 

 and tie all climbers, such as Passifloras, Jasminum 

 grandiflorum, Clianthus, Tecomas, Stauntonias, 

 and Clematises. These should have their shoots 

 thinned out and cut away, and after the glass 

 has been washed most of the hard-wooded species 

 may be housed. Teas and other climbing Roses 

 may also be pruned, and the border should be 

 top-dressed with rich loam and decayed manure. 



Pits and Frames. 



Pot off Malmaison and other winter-flowerino: 

 Carnations that were layered, as advised, last 

 month. Take up Solarium capsicastrum, Callas, 

 Bouvardias, and other winter-flowering plants 

 and pot them afterwards, standing them on a 

 bed of ashes in cold frames, shaded from the 

 sun. Cinerarias will also benefit by beinsr 

 shifted into larger pots before they become pot- 

 bound. See that they are shaded from the 

 bright sun, and ventilate freely. Push forward 

 the propagation of all plants required for bed- 

 ding, as Heliotropes, Coleus, Alternanthera, 

 Iresine, Ageratums, &c. A good quantity of 

 the scented varieties of Pelargoniums should 

 also be put in, as they are very suitable for 

 cutting. 



