FORMATION OF THE FRUIT AND KITCHEN GARDEN. 



23 



1 i 



sinking, but likewise rendering it liable to be 

 completely choked up. If from any cause one 

 tile should sink and those next to it should not, 

 there will be an opening at ^^^ 



the top through which soil jj 

 will fall and in time choke 1 

 the drain. This cannot take 1! 

 place where soles are used, 

 especially if care be taken to 

 place the horse-shoe tiles so 

 as to break bond, that is, to 

 rest on two adjoining soles, \ 

 as they are represented in ^^fclf If 

 fig. 814. The sole tile should | 

 be carefully bedded, so that p . 



when pressed it may be quite 

 flat. Some fibrous materials, or small stones if 

 they are at hand, should be placed over the 

 tiles before the earth is filled in. Fig. 815 re- 

 presents a section of the finished drain. 



Pipe-drains.— Experience has proved these to 

 be the best and cheapest of all drains, and con- 

 sequently pipes in some form or other are now 

 almost exclusively in use for land drainage. 

 They are made of different shapes, but chiefly 

 cylindrical, as in fig. 816, for the draining of 



Fig. 81 



land. The cylindrical form is found, on the 

 whole, to be the best for the purpose. It can 

 be laid with the greatest facility, and it retains 

 its position better than the oval form, especially 

 when the trench is properly cut out. 



The width of the trenches should be just 

 sufficient for a man to work in. In clay soils, 

 when the trench is cut to within 9 inches or 

 a foot of the intended depth, the bottoming 



Fig. 818. 



tools should be employed to cut out a groove 

 merely wide enough for the reception of the 

 pipe, as in fig. 817. In loose gravelly or 



stony subsoils it may not be possible to cut a 

 narrow groove so deep as 9 or more inches, 

 but a depth equal to the diameter of the pipe 

 should at least be grooved out, so that the 

 pipes may bed in the solid ground as accur- 

 ately as possible. Fig. 818 is a section of the 

 finished pipe-drain, with 9 inches of small 

 stones or rough ashes over the pipes, a method 

 that should always be employed in draining 

 garden ground. 



Drain-pipes are sometimes furnished with 

 collars, as represented in fig. 819. These collars 

 should be employed in draining gardens, as they 

 not only tend to keep the pipes from shifting, 

 and thus interrupting the continuous flow of 

 the water, but they also prevent roots from 

 insinuating themselves into the drains. The 

 size of the pipes, or width of their bore, 

 depends on the quantity of water which 



Fig. 819. 



has to be carried off. With regard to the 

 length of the drain, it is easily understood 

 that if pipes of a certain capacity are ne- 

 cessary for a certain length of drain, and if 

 that length be increased, the capacity of the 

 pipes, or at least of those towards the lower 

 end, must also be increased. In all cases, 

 however, it is well to make sure of ample 

 capacity for drawing off all superfluous water 

 that may at any time collect. 



Generally pipes of an inch bore in drains 

 24 feet asunder have proved to be more than 

 adequate to discharge in forty-eight hours the 

 superfluous water produced by the heaviest 

 rains which occur in this country, provided 

 that the pipes are all in good working order; 

 but after a time it must be expected that 

 obstacles to the free passage of water through 

 the pipes will arise, in consequence of which 

 many of them will have the bore partially, 

 and some of them entirely, filled up. It is 

 therefore advisable in gardens, where there 

 is generally a difficulty in relaying the pipes 

 in consequence of trees, to use tiles or pipes 

 of ample capacity. 3-inch pipes are a fair 

 average size, laid even and close, with 9 inches 

 of rubble over them. 



Figs. 820 to 824 represent various modes 

 of forming main drains, one or other of which 

 may be adopted according to circumstances. 

 Fig. 820 is a combination of two horse-shoe 

 tiles, with a tile-sole or slate between them. 

 In many cases the lower end of a drain may so 



