58 



THE GARDENER'S ASSISTANT. 



in the soil; for dwarf trees a length of 2 \ to 3 

 feet is usually sufficient, and a foot length in 

 the ground is generally enough to keep the 

 trees steady. 



Stakes with rough surfaces or edges are 

 objectionable, as there is more danger of stem 

 abrasion, and those with the bark attached, 

 especially if somewhat loose, provide retreats 

 for insect pests. The stakes should preferably 



Fig. 852.— Method of Planting and Staking. 



be round, as the edges of square ones are some- 

 times a source of trouble; and they must be of 

 sufficient diameter to give the requisite rigidity, 

 not less than 2 J inches. The base should be 

 evenly pointed, as they can then be driven into 

 the ground with more regularity; if cut wedge- 

 shaped they are easily thrown out of their 

 places by stones or hard clogs of earth when being 

 forced into the soil. When sufficient time can 

 be allowed for the stakes to dry before they are 

 wanted for use, they should be well tarred; and 

 sound stakes so prepared will last for years, 

 probably, indeed, until the trees are independent 

 of their aid. 



The preceding remarks refer to cases where 

 a single stake is employed for each tree, which 



is planted up to the support, and therefore is 

 exposed to some risk of bark injury unless due 

 precautions are adopted to avoid this by suit- 

 able tying, or by pads between the tree and 

 the stake. It is sometimes found more advan- 

 tageous to have two or three stakes to each tree 

 (fig. 852), which cannot then be placed close to 

 the stem, and they cannot be readily utilized 

 for marking out the exact stations, but the 

 method is convenient where extra protection is 

 needed. 



Size of Holes. — If the whole of the ground has 

 to be cultivated as directed earlier in this chapter, 

 it will not be advisable to make the holes for the 

 trees until planting can be proceeded with. In 

 grass-land the stations must all be prepared in 

 advance, removing the turf from a space 4 to 6 

 feet in diameter (preferably the latter), and 

 either cutting up the turf for incorporation with 

 the soil in digging, or, if that is not desirable, 

 taking it away altogether. In the lighter or 

 poor soils the addition of the broken-up turf 

 is beneficial, but in those of a heavier and more 

 fertile character it is not necessary. 



Treatment of Trees on Arrival. — The majority of 

 nurserymen now give special attention to the care- 

 ful packing of fruit-trees for sending by road or 

 rail, in fact, the packing of plants constitutes a 

 most important department in a nursery. The 

 result is that Apple-trees can be sent some hun- 

 dreds of miles absolutely secure from external 

 injury. As, however, railway journeys are occa- 

 sionally unduly prolonged, risk is incurred in the 

 drying of the roots and stems. More failures arise 

 from this cause than from any other in connec- 

 tion with the removal of Apples, yet it is fre- 

 quently overlooked, and disasters are attributed 

 to everything but the right cause. The most 

 serious results in this direction are seen in very 

 early autumn or late spring planting, but it has 

 been found that evaporation from the bark of 

 Apple-trees is considerable even in the winter 

 when the air is dry. As regards the smaller 

 twigs, the moisture evaporated has been found 

 to exceed 10 per cent of their total weight in 

 a few hours. It is not desirable to expose either 

 roots or trees to severe frosts, but with ordi- 

 nary care the roots of Apple-trees are uninjured 

 by frost, whereas we have seen many either 

 seriously checked or killed by undue drying in 

 transit. 



If the trees arrive at a time when the weather 

 or soil is unfavourable for planting immediately, 

 they should be unpacked and carefully laid in 

 by the roots in trenches in a sheltered position. 

 When the soil is frozen too hard for this pro- 



