PLUMS AND DAMSONS. 



16] 



a drain provided to carry off the surplus water. 

 The border should consist of about a foot of 

 drainage, and 2 feet of good turfy loam. Plums 

 require a liberal quantity of water throughout 

 the growing season. 



Trees grown in pots or tubs should be well 

 drained, and it is necessary to stand them on 

 three or four bricks or tiles to allow the water 

 to get away, and to prevent worms getting into 

 the pots. A temperature of 45° at night and 50° 

 by day will be high enough 

 to start with. The soil in the 

 border and in the pots should 

 then be thoroughly watered 

 with tepid water. After this 

 take advantage of a calm 

 evening to vaporize the house 

 as a precautionary measure, as 

 the Plum, under glass, is very 

 liable to become infested with 

 aphis. Ordinary tobacco-paper 

 will suffice for fumigating, but 

 one of the vaporizing com- 

 pounds now in use is much 

 more pleasant to handle, and 

 certainly more effective in 

 killing the insects. Unless 

 aphis should put in an appear- 

 ance in the interval, this one 

 application will suffice until 

 the flowers are about to ex- 

 pand, when a second fumiga- 

 tion is desirable. This will 

 carry them over that stage, 

 or until the fruit is set, when 

 an occasional vaporizing and 

 vigorous washing with a gar- 

 den-engine should keep them 

 clean. 



When the buds begin to push, increase the 

 temperature to 50°-55° and syringe the trees 

 twice a day with tepid water. Previous to this 

 a light syringing every morning suffices. Main- 

 tain a dry atmosphere whilst the trees are in 

 flower, and set the flowers with a camel-hair 

 brush about the middle of the day. Yentilate 

 as freely as circumstances will permit during 

 the forenoon, to ensure the pollen being free 

 and dry, and if the weather is mild a chink of 

 air may remain on at the front and top ventila- 

 tors throughout the night. Resume syringing 

 as soon as the fruit is set, and if the set is 

 heavy, thin the fruits with a pair of fine grape 

 scissors. With regard to the amount of fruit 

 to have on each tree, this should be governed 

 entirely by the size, age, and health of the trees, 

 Vol. ii. 



and these are matters best determined by those 

 under whose charge the trees may be. This 

 much may be said, always avoid over-cropping, 

 and at the same time do not err in the opposite 

 direction, otherwise the trees will rush to strong 

 growth. 



The growths on the spurs and branches should 

 be stopped to about four buds, leaving leaders 

 and terminal shoots their full length if required 

 for extension purposes, otherwise pinch them at 



.—White Bullace. 



the fifth or sixth leaf. This pinching or stop- 

 ping is best done while the shoots are young 

 and tender. Unless the trees are aged they will 

 require to be pinched several times during the 

 season. A good look-out must be kept for cater- 

 pillars. After the stoning period is saf ely passed, 

 a higher temperature may be maintained to 

 hasten the fruits to maturity, or sun-heat alone 

 may maintain the requisite temperatures if air 

 is shut off early in the afternoon to run the heat 

 up to 65° or 70°. When hot weather sets in, 

 the house will need to be aired abundantly, and 

 the trees washed either with a syringe or garden- 

 engine twice a day. 



Mulching the surface of the border and pots 

 with rich compost must not be neglected, and 

 the roots must not feel the want of water at 



52 



