186 



THE GARDENER'S ASSISTANT. 



strengthen the back buds, continuing this yearly 

 until the desired size is reached. Growth may 

 then to a certain extent be reduced by confining 

 the roots to the same pot for several seasons, 



Pig. 991.— Half-staudard Peach. Alexandra Noblesse. 



and pruning back the young shoots each autumn 

 to the third or fourth bud from the base. 



Repotting. — This should be done when the 

 leaves turn yellow, shaking the old soil away 

 as much as possible without injuring the prin- 

 cipal roots. Remove all suckers and root-buds. 

 Many of the young fibrous roots may be taken 

 away from pot trees in the autumn without 

 any danger of injuring the next season's crop 

 of fruit. In repotting, drain thoroughly, and 

 put a handful of soot over the crocks to keep 

 out worms, which often do much damage in the 

 growing season; Porter's patent crocks are 

 very useful for this purpose. Care must be 

 taken that the old ball is not replaced in the 

 pots in a dry condition; if there is any doubt 

 about it soak it well in a tub of water for fifteen 

 minutes. The soil used should consist of good 

 turfy loam, with the addition of one-twelfth 

 chalk or lime -rubble broken and put through 

 a J-inch sieve. Pot very firmly, and leave 

 a space of inches below the rim for water and 

 top-dressing. 



Storing the Plants for the Winter. — One advan- 

 tage of pot culture is that the plants may be 

 removed elsewhere and the house used for other 

 purposes during the winter; but wherever the 

 trees are placed, they must be protected from 

 severe frost, which would crack the pots. It 



would not hurt the trees if they were dry over- 

 head. They require to be cool — below 40° if 

 the outside temperature permits; they must also 

 be well ventilated, and if these conditions are 

 fulfilled it does not matter if they are kept in a 

 dark shed. A sudden rise of temperature must 

 be carefully guarded against, as it would excite 

 the buds and cause them to start into growth 

 prematurely, with subsequent loss through 

 their falling off instead of expanding their 

 flowers. They must not be allowed to get dry 

 at the root; at the same time they do not 

 require so much water as when in active growth. 

 Should the roots get frozen they will take no 

 harm, but they should be allowed to thaw 

 gradually. 



The Flowering Period. — If the trees are to be 

 grown without fire-heat, the plants should be 

 arranged in their places by the first week of 

 February. When the flowers commence to 

 open, which will be a fortnight later, the house 

 should be fumigated on two successive evenings 

 to destroy insects. After the flowers commence 

 to expand, abundance of air must be given on 

 every favourable occasion, and a small quantity 

 should remain on at all times if the weather is 

 mild. Keep the temperatures at all times as 

 near as is possible to those recommended for 

 Peaches grown in borders under glass, and pro- 

 ceed to thin the fruits when they are set after 

 the same manner. Owing to the limited space 

 in which pot trees have to grow they must not 

 be cropped heavily, or the fruits will be small 

 and deficient in flavour. Four to six fruits are 

 sufficient for a tree in a 9-inch pot. Those in 

 tubs or pots 20 inches in diameter will mature 

 from twenty to twenty-five fruits. 



Disbudding and Stopping will require attention 

 during active growth, as recommended for fan- 

 trained trees, allowing for the change of shape 

 in the tree, also for the fact that trees in pots 

 do not grow so freely as those planted in 

 borders, and therefore form short natural spurs 

 without any assistance. 



Top-dressing. — When the fruits are an inch in 

 diameter the trees should have a top-dressing 

 of manure to compensate in some measure for 

 the limited root space available. Horse manure 

 is very suitable for this purpose, as it is favour- 

 able to root growth. It should be collected 

 when fresh from the stable, the straw removed, 

 and then turned every second day for a week. 

 About one-third part of turfy loam chopped 

 small should be added to it before the first 

 turning, and if some kiln-dust from the malt 

 house (not malt culms) is added also, and some 



