198 



THE GARDENER'S ASSISTANT. 



the space afforded to those which are only half 

 their size. On vigorous branches, or on shoots 

 that proceed from such, more should be left 

 than on parts that are weak, for, where this 

 can be done, it will prove advantageous in 

 repressing excessive vigour. 



General Treatment. — About the beginning of 

 February, and again in March, the soil and 

 subsoil on which Apricots are growing should 

 be examined, and if dry, it should be watered. 

 At this season the surface soil is usually moist 

 enough; but loamy subsoils, that have never 

 been thoroughly trenched and rendered porous 

 by an admixture of suitable materials, are not 

 readily moistened throughout either by rain or 

 mere surface watering. The surface soil should 

 be ridged as deeply as can be done without in- 

 terfering with the roots, and the ridges ought 

 to run parallel to the wall. The hollows be- 

 tween the ridges should then be filled with 

 water, and as it subsides the supply ought to 

 be renewed, until the subsoil is thoroughly 

 soaked. This may be sooner effected by mak- 

 ing holes with a crowbar, so deep as to pene- 

 trate a little way into the loam; but only a 

 little way, for if the crowbar were deeply in- 

 serted, the roots would some day follow its 

 direction, and thus become more deeply em- 

 bedded than is desirable. After watering, the 

 ridges may be levelled. 



If only the surface roots are supplied with 

 moisture, whilst to those more deeply situated 

 the supply is deficient, mildew is apt to attack 

 the foliage; and although this most destructive 

 disease may be checked to a considerable ex- 

 tent by flowers of sulphur, yet the health of 

 the trees cannot be restored whilst the cause 

 of the disease is allowed to exist. We have 

 known Apricot-trees which were nearly killed 

 by mildew, notwithstanding the repeated appli- 

 cation of sulphur and frequent syringing, cured 

 in the following manner. Although covering 

 the wall, they were taken up in autumn, and 

 after the border had been deeply trenched, 

 and the loamy subsoil broken up, replanted. 

 In the following season they produced healthy 

 foliage, quite free from mildew, no application 

 of sulphur being necessary. Where a border 

 has not been properly prepared, and where 

 the trees are severely attacked by mildew, it 

 is advisable to take them up, if not too old, 

 and replant them after the border has under- 

 gone due preparation; for although watering 

 as we have recommended will be effectual in 

 many cases, yet there may be others in which 

 it would be difficult to ensure the uniform 



moistening of all parts of the soil where the roots 

 may travel, as when they pass under walks, &c. 



If summer-watering be necessary, rain- or 

 pond-water is to be preferred to that from 

 springs, for the latter, although in reality no 

 colder than it was in spring, or probably even 

 somewhat warmer, yet is relatively much colder 

 than the mean temperature of the air in hot 

 dry weather in summer, and ought not to be 

 applied unless previously warmed by exposure 

 to the sun and air. 



A mulch of long litter spread 4 inches in 

 thickness on the surface of the alleys early in 

 June prevents too rapid evaporation of moisture 

 by the heat of the sun, and at the same time 

 encourages the formation of quantities of feed- 

 ing roots just under the surface. Established, 

 healthy trees in full bearing, after the fruit has 

 stoned, will need assistance from stimulants in 

 the form of liquid or artificial manure each 

 time water is given, sprinkling the latter on 

 the surface before the water is applied. 



When trees make rank, sappy growth, and 

 fruit but indifferently, the cause may generally 

 be traced to their having been planted in a too 

 rich compost. To add rotten manure to the 

 soil when planting Apricots is therefore a mis- 

 take. Trees that have been thus treated should 

 be lifted, and the obnoxious soil replaced with 

 a compost in which no manure is present, but 

 which should contain a good percentage of 

 calcareous matter. In such a compost growth 

 is short-jointed, firm, and fruitful; and what- 

 ever stimulus the trees may require can be 

 administered from the surface in the manner 

 already described. 



Protection. — The flowers of the Apricot, owing 

 to their appearing so early in the season, are 

 liable to injury from frost. Even the swelling 

 buds will succumb if exposed to severe frost 

 They should therefore be afforded protection as 

 soon as the buds are on the point of bursting. 

 Wide coping - boards are good, as they shed 

 rain-water clear of the trees, and sometimes 

 are sufficient protection. Generally, however, 

 something more than this is needed. Among 

 the materials used for this purpose are "Frigi 

 Domo", and woollen netting, constructed so as 

 to form a blind; old fish-nets, folded three or 

 four times, are also used. Long stakes or poles, 

 two yards apart, should be fixed in front of the 

 wall, for the purpose of keeping the blinds and 

 nets from damaging the blossoms. The trees 

 should be covered every evening and uncovered 

 again next morning, unless the weather is un- 

 favourable. 



