276 



THE GARDENER'S ASSISTANT. 



from the ground into pots be performed as early 

 in the autumn as it is safe to lift the trees. 



Soil. — The most suitable soil is good turfy 

 loam, not too heavy; to five barrow-loads of 

 this add one of sifted old mortar rubbish or 

 road scrapings with plenty of grit in it, one 

 bushel of wood ashes, and one peck of half-inch 



Fig. 106-2.— Pear— Fondante d'Automne (in pot). 



bones. This mixture will suit any of the plants 

 named. In potting, care must be taken to shake 

 the compost well in amongst the roots, and to ram 

 down the same quite firmly with a wooden ram- 

 mer, then watering sufficiently to soak the ball 

 through. They ma} T then be placed in their 

 winter quarters. Peaches and Nectarines are 

 safest under glass, but Apples, Cherries, Pears, 

 and Plums winter perfectly out-of-doors, prefer- 

 ably in a sheltered situation, and plunged close 

 together in a bed of coal ashes, covering the top 

 of the pots at least 2 inches. Here they may 

 remain until the blossom-buds start swelling, 



when they must be removed into their summer 

 quarters. 



The Flowers. — In due course the flowers will 

 expand, when some attention is necessary to 

 secure a good set of fruit. The atmosphere in 

 the house should be kept moderately dry, and 

 if the weather is at all favourable, a free cir- 

 culation of air may play about the trees night 

 and day, avoiding cold draughts as much as 

 possible. Fertilization of the flowers may be 

 aided by giving the trees a smart shake once or 

 twice a day, and by stroking over the flowers 

 with a light feather brush such as housemaids 

 use for dusting ornaments. 



Summer Treatment. — This consists of pinching 

 the growing shoots, thinning the fruit, keeping- 

 insects in check, &c. No definite rule can be 

 laid down as to pinching at the right bud; 

 sometimes it is desirable, in order to extend a 

 young tree, that the shoots may grow a foot or 

 more long before the point is taken out. In 

 cases where the trees are as large as the house 

 will permit, the shoots may safely be pinched at 

 the third or fourth leaf; the operation may be 

 repeated on the laterals when they have made 

 two or three leaves. 



The fruit should be thinned as soon as the 

 crop is safely set and has begun to swell. First 

 single them out, and if all goes well in another 

 ten days they will require further attention. By 

 this time a good idea can be formed as to what 

 fruit will drop owing to defective fertilization. 

 These are of a lighter green colour than those 

 perfectly fertilized. If the crop is abundant 

 and the fruit swelling evenly, a severe thinning 

 may safely be made, taking care to leave plenty 

 for the final thinning. This can be deferred 

 for several weeks, when it will be seen which 

 are taking the lead and occupying the best 

 position on the trees. 



It is important in the cultivation of trees in 

 pots to give a top- or surface-dressing after the 

 second thinning, as by that time the roots are 

 in full action and in a fit state to take in large 

 quantities of nourishing food. An excellent 

 compost for this purpose is to take, say, half 

 a barrow-load of night-soil, add to it the same 

 quantity of dry wood ashes and of dry sifted 

 loam, a peck of fresh soot, and a peck of bone- 

 dust. The whole should be thoroughly mixed 

 a few days prior to its being required. If night- 

 soil is objectionable or cannot be procured, 

 fresh poultry droppings may be substituted. A 

 layer half an inch thick of the mixture should 

 be given to each plant, and watered with a fine 

 rose, to settle the compost. After the final 



