286 



THE GAKDENER'S ASSISTANT. 



sap. When the young shoots push, tie the rod 

 to the trellis, and when long enough gradually 

 bring the young shoots to a horizontal position. 

 Frequently, op- 

 posite the fourth 

 leaf the rudi- 

 ments of a bunch 

 will be found; 

 this should be 

 pinched off, and 

 the number of 

 shoots reduced 

 or disbudded, so 

 that they will be 

 about 18 inches 

 apart, or one to 

 each transverse 

 wire on the trellis 

 on either side of 

 the rod. These 

 laterals must be 

 pinched at the 

 third or fourth 

 leaf, stopping the 

 sub - laterals at 

 the first leaf. 

 When the sea- 

 son's growth is 

 completed and 

 pruning takes 

 place, these lat- 

 erals should be 

 shortened back 



to one bud to form the basis of the spur. In 

 the following season the portion of rod above 

 the spurs will produce shoots, which in turn 

 will form spurs, and by pursuing this system 

 each season the rod becomes clothed through- 

 out its entire length with spurs. 



Disbudding. — As Vines invariably develop 

 more growths than are required, it is necessary 

 to reduce their number by disbudding. This is 

 most important with young plants, as their 

 whole future form depends on its proper per- 

 formance, while established and older plants 

 would soon become overcrowded with growths 

 if disbudding were not resorted to. The proper 

 time to disbud is as soon as it can be seen how 

 many shoots are likely to develop, and which 

 of these it is deemed best to retain. It can be 

 done with the finger and thumb, and without 

 loss or check to the Vine. Many defer disbud- 

 ding old Vines until they can perceive which of 

 the laterals are carrying the best bunches, but 

 even then the weakest and badly -placed growths 

 should be removed as soon as they push out. 



Fig. 1067.— Spur-i>runed three-year-old 

 Vine Stem. 



Stopping the Shoots. — This is generally per- 

 formed with respect to fruiting Vines at the 

 second leaf beyond the bunch, and in the cage 

 of two-year-old Vines, when the shoots have 

 developed five or six leaves. Some stop the 

 young shoots at the first leaf and others at the 

 third, but it is of little importance, as regards 

 the swelling or development of the bunch, at 

 which it is done. Where there is plenty of room 

 for the foliage, stop at the second leaf, or even 

 the third, for the sap elaborated by the addi- 

 tional leaf or leaves will add vigour to the Vine. 

 If stopping at the second leaf beyond the bunch 

 would render the foliage crowded, by all means 

 stop at the first. After being stopped, new 

 growths will push from the axils of the leaves; 

 these should be stopped at the first joint, un- 

 less there should be room on the trellis for train- 

 ing out the one formed at the extreme end of 

 the shoot, and then it may be pinched at the 

 second, third, or fourth leaf according to space 

 at command. In addition, these sub-lateral 

 growths may also be used for filling up any 

 bare spaces there may be between the spurs. 

 For the stopping of young growing Vines see 

 Treatment after Planting. 



Setting the Flowers. — Some varieties of the 

 Vine will set well without any extraneous aid 

 whatever, while others set badly if not assisted. 

 Those in the first category are termed "free 

 setters", and in the last "bad" or " shy" setters 

 (fig. 1068). A gentle tapping or shaking of 

 the rods suffices to cause a free dispersion of 

 pollen in the case of free setters. In the latter 

 instance artificial means are necessary to ensure 

 a good set. Several expedients are adopted to 



accomplish this end. 

 Some syringe the 

 bunches when in 

 flower, others draw 

 their hand down 

 them to ensure the 

 necessary dispersion 

 of the pollen, while 

 others pass a pampas 

 plume or a rabbit's 

 tail over them. The 

 best of artificial aids 

 is a camel-hair pen- 

 cil, and to render the 

 operation the more successful, pollen from a free- 

 setting sort, such as Black Hambro or Black 

 Alicante, should be employed. Should the 

 latter flower earlier than the varieties which 

 have to be fertilized by hand, the pollen may 

 be shaken or brushed into a cardboard box, 



Fig. 1068.— Flowers of Grape Vine (X4). 

 «, Erect stamens, free setting, b, De- 

 flexed stamens, shy setting. 



