THE VINE. 



289 



Pot Culture. 



The fruiting of Vines in pots was practised 

 by Speechly at Welbeck a century ago, but 

 chiefly with the view of proving varieties form- 

 ing part of a collection too extensive for all 

 to be planted out. Now, however, this mode 

 of culture has been found an easy means for 

 the supply of early fruit without forcing the 

 permanent Vines in winter. 



Vines for fruiting in pots should be raised 

 from eyes, and be grown on as strongly as pos- 

 sible. When the young plants have filled the 

 pots with roots, give them a shift into 6-inch 

 or 8-inch pots, and from these into the frui ting- 

 pots, which should be 12 inches or 14 inches 

 in diameter. For compost use the best fibrous 

 loam obtainable, chopped moderately fine. With 

 each barrow-load mix a 10-inch potful of bone- 

 meal, a little charcoal broken to the size of cob- 

 nuts, or wood ashes, and a little well-rotted 

 manure quite free from worms. Wash the 

 pots, and place 2 inches of crocks in the bottom, 

 sprinkling a little fine soot among them before 

 covering them with pieces of rough turf. The 

 potting is best done in the house in which the 

 Vines are growing, to avoid risk of chill, and if 

 the compost is taken in a few days before the 

 potting takes place, it will get warm by the 

 time it is wanted. These precautions should 

 always be taken with young Vines. 



When the Vines commence to make free 

 growth they require a brisk temperature and 

 an abundance of atmospheric moisture. Some 

 apply a brisk bottom-heat to the pots after the 

 first shift, but we think they are best grown 

 without its aid once they are shifted into fruit- 

 ing-sized pots. While in full growth the night 

 temperature may range from 65° to 70°, and 

 from 75° to 80° by day, allowing a further rise 

 of 10° with sun-heat. Close the house as early 

 as is consistent with safety; ply the syringe 

 vigorously on plants, walls, paths, &c. As growth 

 proceeds train the plants as single canes tied 

 to the wire trellis under the roof. Until the 

 shoots reach the trellis stake them and attend 

 to the tying. When the canes are 6 feet or 

 8 feet long, pinch out the ends. Lateral 

 shoots will then push, and these must in turn 

 be stopped at the first leaf as fast as they 

 appear. From the time they begin to make 

 new roots, they must be watered freely; they 

 should also have liquid manure when the pots 

 have become filled with roots. Mulchings of 

 short manure or horse droppings will also be 

 beneficial, as they serve both to feed the roots 



Vol. II. 



and to a great extent check too rapid evapora- 

 tion from the soil. 



When the canes show signs of becoming 

 ripened, i.e. when the bark turns brown, less 

 atmospheric moisture and more air will be 

 required, reducing it by degrees, so that the 

 house can eventually be freely ventilated both 

 by day and by night. Continue to give the 

 same amount of attention to root waterings, 

 and as soon as the ripening of the canes is 

 complete, cut away all lateral growths, and 

 prune back each cane to the desired length. 

 Then place them in the open air against a 

 south wall, or hedge, to get thoroughly ripened. 

 Protect the roots in the pots by standing boards 

 in front of the latter, or otherwise placing some 

 long litter round and about them, and always 

 give them all the water they require. 



Another method of producing pot Vines is, 

 instead of raising and growing them on to a 

 fruiting size in the first season, to rear them 

 with less heat, and to fruit them after they 

 have made the second year's growth. In this 

 case it is unnecessary to shift them the first 

 year after they have been put into 6-inch or 

 8-inch pots. In the winter following propaga- 

 tion, cut back the young canes to within three 

 eyes of the soil. When the canes are started 

 into growth (which should take place early in 

 February), shake them out, and re-pot in as 

 small pots as the roots can conveniently be got 

 into, and grow them on as already advised; select 

 the strongest of the three breaks to form the 

 future cane, rubbing off the other two. When 

 well grown, such plants are much stronger and 

 more robust than those grown in one year. 



Fruiting Vines in Pots. — About the middle 

 of November, earlier or later according to the 

 urgency of the demand for early Grapes, the 

 Vines should be placed in the house or pit in 

 which they are to be forced. The pots may be 

 plunged in manure or tan having a temperature 

 of 70° to 75°, or they may be fruited quite as 

 satisfactorily if the pots are merely stood on 

 boards, or a stage placed over the hot -water 

 pipes near the front of the house. The tem- 

 peratures already given with regard to forcing 

 the Vine will apply here, as will also other 

 directions for general management. 



To ensure an even break of buds, pot Vines 

 should always have the apex of the canes bent 

 round to a point below the rims of the pots, 

 and be well syringed three or four times a day. 

 When well started, the canes may be re-tied to 

 the trellis and disbudded as soon as it can be 

 seen which of the shoots are showing the best 



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