314 



THE GARDENER'S ASSISTANT. 



Like all other evergreen plants, Oranges can- 

 not bear the soil in which they grow to become 

 very dry, especially in the summer season; on 

 the other hand, they must not, when at rest, 

 be kept too wet. It is the want of discernment 

 in giving too much water in the winter to 



Fig. 1096.— Lime (Citrus medico LimettaV ft.) 



Oranges that are being subjected to a much 

 lower temperature than is natural for them, 

 that often produces a sickly condition through 

 the loss of the small feeding roots. "When they 

 get into this state there generally follows a loss 

 of leaves, a great portion falling off, in which 

 case the only remedy is a removal of a good 

 part of the soil, cutting off all decayed roots, 

 and planting them in smaller pots, which should 

 not be larger than is necessary to admit the 

 ball without unduly crushing the roots. They 

 must then be placed in a growing temperature 

 and supplied with a bottom-heat of 80°, giving 

 sufficient but not too much water, and shading 

 closely from the sun until new roots are formed; 

 as the latter get plentiful, larger pots must be 

 given, still continuing the bottom-heat. 



If they have suffered much in leaf, and the 

 branches are consequently bare, they may be 

 cut back the following spring just before growth 

 commences; but this reducing of the shoots 

 must never be attempted with plants in a 



weakly state, until their roots have been got to 

 move freely, otherwise death is almost certain 

 to follow. 



Propagation. — The Orange family can be in- 

 creased by seeds, layers, cuttings, budding, and 

 grafting. Plants raised from seeds are princi- 

 pally used as stocks on which to graft 

 choice varieties, seedlings growing 

 strongly, and also being slow in fruit- 

 ing, and unreliable as regards quality. 

 Sow the seeds thinly in well-drained 

 pots nearly filled with fine sandy soil, 

 covering with 1 inch of soil, and place 

 or plunge in a brisk bottom-heat. 

 The seed under such conditions will 

 not be slow in germinating, and the 

 seedlings, when about 2 inches high, 

 should be placed separately in 3-inch 

 pots, keeping them in a close, warm 

 frame or house till they are well 

 established. They should be kept 

 growing in a warm house or frame 

 and shifted into larger pots before 

 they become badly root-bound. 



When about two years old they 

 will be large enough for grafting, 

 that is, if dwarf trees are desired, 

 but if standards are preferred the 

 stocks should be grown strongly and 

 with a clear stem till they are tall 

 enough. The small stocks may be 

 budded or grafted. Budding is either 

 done in August or in the spring, 

 selecting perfect buds from healthy 

 young shoots, and inserting these in the stems 

 near the ground in the usual way. The stocks 

 ought to be kept in a warm house and be 

 headed down to near the buds, when these 

 should start into growth in the spring. Liga- 

 tures ought to be removed before they injure 

 the bark. If the buds have taken well, rapid 

 growth of shoots should result, especially if the 

 plants are given the benefit of bottom-heat. To 

 make the plants bushy they should be cut in 

 occasionally. 



Grafting may be performed in the spring 

 when the sap is active, side-grafting being the 

 best method. Seedling stocks of Citron or 

 Lemon are the best if large trees are desired, 

 while the neat-growing Citrus trifoliatus answers 

 well for small trees, such as are frequently 

 grown for decorative purposes. 



Cuttings 6 inches long, of firm, young wood, 

 with a heel of old wood attached, duly cleared 

 of lower leaves, and inserted in pots filled with 

 sand and plunged in a bottom-heat of 75° to 80°, 



